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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pietia View Post
    Deadmilkman mentioned this, but I'll provide more detail.
    Buy matte varnish and gloss varnish in "paint", not spray. Vallejo sells it, probably Citadel also does (I never bothered to check).
    Make sure that the area on which you want to set the decal is clear etc. Paint on 2-3 layers of gloss varnish. Apply decal. Micro-sol and similar fluids are recommended at this stage, but fully optional. After the decal has time to dry, paint a layer or two of matte varnish on top of it. Decal blends perfectly
    This is how I do mine too, seems to work well. I have to say GW decals are pants! very low quality.
    I have no trouble at all with Hasagawa decals or Tamiya.
    To a New Yorker like you a hero is some kinda weird sandwich, not some nut who takes on three Tigers!

  2. #12
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    Folks-

    Thanks so much for all of the tips. I had tried undercoating with dull coat, then setting the decal, then overcoating with dull coat, and that blended better than simply setting it with water. I am trying right now the tip of undercoating with gloss coat, then overcoating with dull and will let you know how it turns out.

    The volume of friendly tips and advice posted in response to a relatively simple question is a great example of what makes this hobby enjoyable, and the BoLS forums great fun to browse. I'll have to "lurk" less and participate more.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by deadmilkman View Post
    MicroSol and MicroSet are the professional method. I go for a more low tech method, which calls for a brush on gloss clear coat under and over the decal, then matte spray sealer. Works pretty well for me.

    Cutting the decal as close to the design as possible is also a great thing to do.

    Wes
    Incidentally, on the subject of using MicroSol and MicroSet, I have noted that even if you use one (or both) of these, the decal can still fleck or scrape off fairly easily over time. I think it's still a good idea to overcoat with your lacquer of choice. Nothing is sadder than to work so hard to get that decal JUSSSTTT right, only to have some klutz (in my case, usually me) scratch half of it off.

  4. #14
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    Aug 2009
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    Microsol and microset are absolutely the best way to apply transfers. They are easy to use and very cheap. They cost about $5 bucks each and will last a very long time. I've had the same two bottles for about 5 or 6 years.

    The way I do it is pour out a bit of the blue bottle into its own cap, dip the decal in it for a second or to two, let it sit for a few more seconds, then place it where you want it with a brush. Don't touch it with your fingers! Once you're happy with the placement brush over it with the red bottle. As someone said earlier, it might wrinkle a little but that's ok. Keep an eye on it while it dries, and if the wrinkles don't go away, dip your brush in the red bottle again and smooth it out with your brush.

    I used to lose my mind trying to put transfers on marine pads until I started using microsol/set. When you only use water, you are essentially gluing something flat onto something round, which is very difficult. What microsol does is actually melt the carrier film so when you're finished, all that's left is the design. That's why you get that painted on look.

    It will be the best $10 you've ever spent. And no, I don't work for microsol.

    P.s. here is an example of a decal applied with microset/sol then dullcoated.[IMG][/IMG]
    Last edited by Skeletay; 09-10-2009 at 08:18 PM.

  5. #15
    Veteran-Sergeant
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    Australia
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    Good stuff, I will have to give it a go myself. Certainly carnt hurt for that price!

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