Modelling Tools: A Guide for Newbies

[YorkNecromancer]

Hey there. If you're reading this, hopefully it's because you're a newbie who's looking to make some exciting new models. This article is for you, the new teenager who has just picked up a box of Space Marines and are only just learning about how much the older gamers hate you for daring to be both young and interested in what they like. Now, while I'm about to talk about myself a lot, please don't think this article is about bragging, humble or otherwise. Yes, I've got twenty-odd years of experience in making toys for 40K, and I have made models I'm proud of, but I'm certainly nowhere near the level of other members on this forum. Seriously, go look at the gallery here and you'll see what I mean.

However, twenty years lived in a fume-soaked haze does mean that I know an awful lot about the equipment necessary to the hobby, and every time I see Games Workshop release a bunch of new tools it sticks in my ******* craw like you wouldn't believe. In particular I have been motivated to write this because the latest release of GW tools is so blatant (and morally disgusting) a cash grab it almost makes me physically sick. Overcharge me for models? Okay fine, they're really very nice and I can't get them anywhere else. But selling snake oil to youngsters who don't know better yet? For shame.

So, if you're one of those youngsters, here I offer my relatively condensed wisdom about what you will need and what you won't need.

Craft knives:
Absolutely essential. I use two main types:
[url]http://www.toolstop.co.uk/stanley-0-10-151-sm-snap-off-blade-knife-18mm-p6511[/url]
This is the exact knife I use, and it is an absolute workhorse. It will do anything you want, from fine sculpting to general oddment removal. The angle of the blade is one which I find far more useful for cutting, and the fact it's an inch thick means you can apply more pressure more safely, which is much better all round when cutting through things like thick plasticard. Oh, and by-the-by, the mold line removing tool is the biggest con GW has going. In twenty years I have never needed one, on account of this magnificent beast. It removes mold lines with perfect precision.

"Oh, but YorkNecromancer, that blade is clearly way too big for delicate sculpting. I need a finer blade than that."



I used this very knife to sculpt the face of the Wraithknight you see here. Yes, I used other tools too (I did the teeth with a sharpened pencil tip, and made the eyesocket with the back of the same pencil) but the vast majority of the sculpting was done with that knife.

So, do you need a smaller blade?

Absolutely you do. But not one of Games Workshop's overpriced pieces of crap.

[url]http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/hobbycraft-craft-knife/566764-1000[/url]

This is my fine detail knife. I use this when the big-*** blade you see above is perhaps a little too big, which is actually less often than you might think. However, I use this knife all the time. What for?



Rivets, baby. I use it for rivets. The picture above is of my Imperial army's MALP; I use it as an objective in games. It's scratchbuilt, and a big part of scratchbuilding tanks is rivets. I like to use styrene rod, and that's incredibly easy to cut up and apply using a tiny craft knife.



Check out all those rivets!

Now, you should note that both knives together come up less than £5. That is important because you MUST always use the sharpest blade possible for safety's sake. It cuts better, and thus with less pressure, as well as leaving a smoother edge to the cut (which looks better). Given that GW is charging approximately three times this (and for only the one blade), I actually think their sales strategy verges on being irresponsible.

What I'm saying is: use the money you've saved to buy fresh blades. Your skin will thank you, as will your arteries. Seriously, don't **** around with razors; accidents with these bad boys are awful.

Next on the tool list: the pin vice.

[url]http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/model-craft-pin-vice-double-ended-swivel-top/570267-1000[/url]

Yes, it's the most expensive tool on the list, and it's also pretty non-essential, but it is incredibly useful. I use it for drilling out bolter barrels and for pinning older metal models. That's something you youngsters won't really have to worry about as much as we older gamers did, but nonetheless, a pin vice is a helpful tool to have. You can use it to add bullet-hole damage, as well as making things look more 'science fiction-y'. Look at the back of Master Chief's gloves to get the idea.



Next comes clippers:

[url]http://www.screwfix.com/p/diagonal-cutting-pliers-160mm-6-in/84670[/url]
[url]http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/modelcraft-sprue-cutter/569366-1000[/url]

These are the cheapest I've found online. The current pair I have cost me £1.95 from Barnitt's in York. These things are not expensive to acquire, which is a theme I hope is coming across. They are absolutely essential for removing model pieces from sprue; yes, you can use a craft knife, but I wouldn't recommend it (because, again, safety)

If you buy a more sturdy pair, they can also cut through things like guitar wire. Some clippers tend to be made of a cheaper (and thus softer) alloy, and won't go through the wire, but the wire will happily leave your clippers with a little dint where a nice sharp edge used to be. Just something to be aware of.

Then we move onto needle files:

[url]http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/set-of-10-assorted-needle-files/561535-1000[/url]

These are often quite expensive to get hold of, but that said, you can sometimes find these things in pound shops if you shop hard enough. They're alright, but frankly I just used my blades for almost everything that these do. You'd be surprised how smooth an edge you can get if you're just patient and take your time. If you're new, I really wouldn't waste my time with these things.

Then we move on to modelling putty.

My favourite is Milliput yellow:

[url]http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/milliput-standard-yellow-grey-two-part-epoxy-putty/569176-1000[/url]

And just so's you know, the link above? This is an expensive price. I normally pay about £3 to £4 for that amount. Milliput is awkward to work when soft, but beautiful when hard, because it carves up a treat:



This guy's cape? Made of Milliput which I just sort of roughly pushed into place, and then carved into this shape when solid.



Same with the door logo I sculpted for this. The rivets were applied with superglue that I dotted on using a cocktail stick (the rivets themselves were applied to said glue with the mini-knife above).

Milliput is available in other varieties. I've never tried them, on account of I don't see why I should pay more when the cheapest stuff does the job perfectly to begin with.

Now, yes, Green Stuff (Kneadatite) is good too. Just don't buy it from GW. Go onto eBay. I bought 36" of the stuff for £6.35.

Apart from your desk light (which is somewhat beyond the purview of this article), I would argue that for a beginner, any other tools are pretty much a waste of time. I'm not saying it won't be useful (with the exception of the mold-line tool, which is frankly an insult to the hobby) but probably of so unbelievably specific a use that unless you need it for that, it's just not worth having it. Rotary tools (Dremels and the like, for example [url]http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/rotacraft-rc12vs-mini-variable-speed-tool-kit/569223-1000[/url]) are great, but I use mine maybe once or twice a year, and I'm modelling for a couple of hours almost every night.

In conclusion:
So, I hope this has been useful, and as a final piece of advice, always get your tools from real shops rather than online - they're almost always cheaper there. Aim for individual hardware stores as much as you can; they tend to undercut the competition. And don't forget to check your local poundland. It's amazing the stuff that shows up there.

Oh, and always buy your poly cement glues from the local model train shop and your superglues from the local hardware store. GW overcharges for its glues too.

And as for what they charge for PVA?

[url]http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/hobbycraft-1-litre-craft-pva/567251-1000[/url]

£5 for a litre. And if you shop around, you can get it cheaper.