Defiant Workshop's Project Log! Thrills! Chills! Explosions?

[defiantworkshop]

Hey all, since I'm less of a wargamer, and more of a model builder, figured instead of opening up a zillion onesy-twosy type posts, I'll just put all my various projects and other assorted sundry things here.

You all might remember me from my Orktober 31 diorama (http://www.lounge.belloflostsouls.net/showthread.php?48906-WIP-Halloween-themed-Ork-diorama) ages ago, but I've kept busy, and a lot of what I've done hasn't fallen under the 40k banner as of late, but that boat seems to be headed back to my shores.

We'll start off with a few sets of power weapons I was commissioned to do for a Grey Knight player. He wanted the standard blue for some of his guys, and green to set his terminators apart.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FqYV04dJ4s8/VMJSxD8J1sI/AAAAAAAABiE/jgBmsX_huZU/s1600/IMG_0510.JPG

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ibAio4JM8UA/VMJSxMu_NiI/AAAAAAAABiI/mi8qjUQOb5g/s1600/IMG_0511.JPG

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http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4-3VdAvlkTA/VQq-Jy2zYXI/AAAAAAAABrs/vCcNU-JG4ag/s1600/IMG_0630.JPG

[defiantworkshop]

With that out of the way, this is my Crimson Raider project. With me not really knowing much about what loadouts go with what, and what markings refer to which rules, I pretty much just build it how I think it looks coolest, so apologies if this (and any future ones) don't match up with the fluff/rules properly. :)

Started out doing the cockpit area, doing a quick spray for OSL:

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http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OTBhhe_NNyk/U_KXBqMgrsI/AAAAAAAAA6g/V44aRoRG5G0/s1600/photo%2B2.JPG

[Wolfshade]

like the sword effects

[defiantworkshop]

Next step on the Crimson Hunter. Fully assembled, getting ready for primer by first masking, then dealing with the seams where the fins meet the body of the craft. Some of how the kit goes together makes seam lines turn into panel lines, but these pieces just look off, so I puttied them up.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OpJcUJfQRWM/VRAowO9weEI/AAAAAAAABsw/dkuRCprJhHg/s1600/IMG_0647.JPG

Of course, its never as flawless as you want the first time through. The seam line is gone, but the transition just...isn't right after primer.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uJY7vC0dV2c/VRApifkwniI/AAAAAAAABtw/1lzHc6i0PTg/s1600/IMG_0648.JPG

So I re-sanded using micro mesh to try to make the lines a little more fluid.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oe8u6_3Fxo4/VRAowmN9VvI/AAAAAAAABs8/Q41OvkXuWTg/s1600/IMG_0651.JPG

Finally, after all was well, its time for a sprayed base coat of gloss black. The paint I'm using is enamel, so it has a while to gas out before it fully cures to the point I can start doctoring it for a mirror smooth finish. That's good timing though, b/c I'm off for vacation in a week, so I can let it sit for a bit and get back to it when my plane touches down:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NXxGHJEi8gs/VRAowi0eRRI/AAAAAAAABtA/WCkQrqxQO5M/s1600/IMG_0652.JPG

As always, thanks for looking!

[defiantworkshop]

Had a quick last-minute commission before hitting the road for a few days. Got to see how quickly I could churn a project out while packing, dealing with two kids, and the other parts of real life interfering with what "really" matters. :)

Anyways, client wanted a Grey Knights Nemesis Standard done up for his army before I left if possible, so I sat down while I wait on the Eldar Hunter to gas out, figured I could churn it out. Got it done in a quick afternoon, pleased with the result for the speed. Its still on the sprue, so I didn't get any good "finished" pics of it, but here it is on my armrest!

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http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X9xjmOXwj-0/VRQaJzH2KLI/AAAAAAAABuI/TOzqirYi5gA/s1600/IMG_0666.JPG

[Lord Commissar Maxwell]

Loving the standard!

[defiantworkshop]

Back from vacation! And as promised, the next pieces in my harrowing tale, painting in between on work and children!

So with airbrushing, as I said before, I need a mirror finish to start with, before moving on to the finer metallics. My original finish was done with too much humidity, so it had a little bumpy texture to it, if you look closely:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pcXS_lIxOiM/VRQiYxrObXI/AAAAAAAABuo/O3c0XKFURSA/s1600/IMG_0653.JPG

So I took to it with a 6000 grit micro mesh cloth, working my way up to 12,000 grit:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r_uVCpH7PKo/VS_HOTdEEtI/AAAAAAAABvk/tfxg3hofz8E/s1600/IMG_0670.JPG

Unfortunately I wasn't entirely happy with the thinner I user, so I ordered a new batch and am waiting on it to arrive in the mail, so I'm off to find a kit to get building in the meantime! Sorry for the delay, but being back home after a few weeks off is great, and time to get back to business!

[defiantworkshop]

So while I wait on my new enamel thinner to arrive, time to keep busy with a new project. I bought a Tau Devilfish pretty much just to do a camo stencil design, so I got started with the build process on it.

Assembly on it is pretty straight forward. You can tell its an older kit, and there's some questioning as to what should be "panel lines" and what is a really bad seam. So, since its just supposed to be for fun, I figured I'll just make quick judgement calls. After assembly, I reinforced the illusion of the panel lines by using s scribing tool to deepen them after gluing them together:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jmu4Q123CMk/VS_H7AjiS1I/AAAAAAAABvs/qmLw_Y7m8ts/s1600/IMG_1036.JPG

The next step is to hide the seam lines that are obviously problematic, especially on the engines. I was able to see a finished version without the seams hidden on them, and its a big deal. So i hid the seams using styrene and its cement's natural welding properties. Glue the pieces together, and sand using a rough grit. Then re-glue the seam line, which welds the styrene dust together in the seam. After that, you just re-sand with progressively smoother grit sandpaper until it vanishes entirely:

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Next, its on to the landing gear! Thanks for looking!

[defiantworkshop]

I plan on displaying this kit as "in flight" so I didn't want the landing gear down. However, landing gear down is the only option given with the parts on this kit, and the bottom skids don't fit into the area supplied, so physically, this can't actually work in a real life scenario, and means I have to fashion my own landing gear covers:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BOJRtI2bX0U/VS_H7Gb0GpI/AAAAAAAABvw/8kTT98pq1TY/s1600/IMG_1037.JPG

So, I set to work. I first measured out how big the landing gear housing was, then traced it out on a sheet of styrene, and did small superficial cuts with an Xacto and straight edge:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QqtVH1_7jgo/VS_MBncZqgI/AAAAAAAABwg/rvBkyouwOhg/s1600/IMG_1038.JPG

After that, you can just snap the pieces off, then glue them on! I didn't worry about any detail, asthe kit will be displayed as more "hovering" than "airborne" so you won't see much of the detail on the underside, but three gaping housing units would detract the eye from any position.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZG7FJKTE0MY/VS_H7SNl9gI/AAAAAAAABv0/2MK08nar4oc/s1600/IMG_1039.JPG

[Haighus]

The sand-cement-sand-cement technique is really effective! Will totally be stealing that one... :D You wouldn't know there had been a seam there at all without having built the model yourself.

[defiantworkshop]

Haighus, its the best solution for tight seams. Major gaps still need putty, but you have to let the cement and styrene work for you when the option is there! Way less sloppy than putty, far less sanding time as well.

[Haighus]

It certainly looks neat. Will get a nice welded look on Imperial vehicles too I would imagine if done right :)

[defiantworkshop]

Definitely. If you use a brush on cement, you can actually use a tad less, and create a "carved" look with the brush while its drying. Just swirl the brush around the seam while its still a bit wet, and there you go.

One other trick is you can glue the halves together with too much glue (usually has to be done with thicker cement), then pull them apart quickly, and push them back together. You end up squeezing the excess glue and plastic out of the seam. It a "mistake" that can look like a weld line if done right, but tough to control, and might shouldn't be done around heavy detail.

You can read a bit about some of my gap methods here, I haven't finished the series with larger gaps yet, but some decent tricks to be had:

Gap Filling (https://www.google.com/url?q=http://defiantworkshop.blogspot.com/2014/10/tutorial-gap-filling-part-1-using.html&sa=U&ei=oSkwVZWHG8SlyATmjoDYBw&ved=0CAgQFjAB&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNFCH5iwrbMsI3tE1mKUk9ki5wclzg)

Gap Filling part 2 (https://www.google.com/url?q=http://defiantworkshop.blogspot.com/2014/10/tutorial-gap-filling-part-2-largers.html&sa=U&ei=oSkwVZWHG8SlyATmjoDYBw&ved=0CAUQFjAA&client=internal-uds-cse&usg=AFQjCNEx9OXfymxebRSTm_4hamUy3vdWlw)

[Haighus]

They look like useful threads, thanks :)

[defiantworkshop]

So I was not happy whatsoever with the built in weaponry of the Devilfish. The gun in the middle that comes with the kit is a gatling-style, four-barreled weapon with serious seam lines, and due to its construction, makes it tough to clean and look nice. So I decided to take matters into my own hands.

I sliced off the barrels at the base and sanded it down, then got a few parts from my bits bin and got to work mixing and matching, seeing what worked together. I ended up with the barrel from what I believe is the Ork Bommer, housed in an old AMT/ERTL X-Wing thruster, with a gas cap on the end of the barrel to make it a little more visually interesting:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BDI4aBnJCYg/VTTvpZcuOmI/AAAAAAAABx0/yxUpZhEwsV8/s1600/IMG_1048.JPG

After that, I primed the individual pieces in white (its assembled but not totally glued together here):

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[defiantworkshop]

Finally got all the stars aligned to continue on this...a clean airbrush, some new paint and new thinner, and all the family birthday parties and field trips out of the way. Had a free day, so it was time to get everything based up on the Eldar Crimson Hunter.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SPXiHuAUXHA/VTryEZiycFI/AAAAAAAAByI/4IetnrJ8-1w/s1600/IMG_1079.JPG

Not much has really changed, other than I got a good smooth coat on the vehicle. After the original coat and the eventual sanding to even the orange peel out, I mixed up some enamel paint (Humbrol this time) 1:1 with some dedicated enamel thinner and sprayed at just below 20 psi. Got a nice smooth coat this time. As enamel paints have a longer than normal dry time, I didn't want any lint, dust, or kids' sneeze to get on the base coat, so I placed it in an upside-down plastic container, where it will stay for a few days while it dries and gases out.

Thanks, as always, for stopping by!

[defiantworkshop]

Time to make some polygons!

After finally spraying the entire works base black (after a change in direction for the color scheme...I would've primed in black had I known I'd wind up here), I started laying the polygonal masks down. Not much here, but its progress while I wait for the Crimson Hunter enamel base coat to finish drying.

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http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OI7YDr8HdHc/VT45iq3lwvI/AAAAAAAAByg/s0FS2sydoUs/s1600/IMG_1083.JPG

[defiantworkshop]

Just a quick post showing where its at in the process. Finished the spraying and mask removal last night. Next up is accent colors, then washes, then final shots!

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OqoczHsW5OA/VT-A4cW3EGI/AAAAAAAABy4/axp6YTprdvw/s1600/IMG_1088.JPG

[defiantworkshop]

So my next step, after finishing the camo, was to work on an accent color to give it a bit more visual interest. I looked through my paint inventory and decided a crimson red would look best. So I started off by masking the areas that would need to be protected from the spray:

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Pretty basic stuff....just used Tamiya masking tape around the crucial areas and then plain old hardware store masking tape for the rest since its cheaper. The Tamiya stuff is lower tack and thinner, so its a lot easier to not only position it in the right spot. but also easier to trim with an Xacto blade in the correct spots than the cheapo stuff. From there, I mixed up a batch of Tamiya Red and a dash of Hull Red (more of a brown than red) to knock the color down a bit. I sprayed it all mixed 2:1 with thinner and around 20 psi.

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After giving it all a good bit to dry appropriately, I peeled the tape off. I didn't want to do a very large amount of red, since the color change is so stark (going from literally no color [blacks and grays] to a vibrant color [crimson]), so I left the body mostly free except a few pieces up front. Didn't want to do any red on the back of the actual vehicle, since the bulk of the red would be on the turbines themselves.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SMJoCLuuvZs/VUDKcCLyv_I/AAAAAAAABzY/03STTvhWcWQ/s1600/IMG_1099.JPG

As always, thanks for looking!

[defiantworkshop]

Just about done with this. Spent another day picking out the details and washing the panel lines on the Devilfish. Doesn't look phenomenally different than the last shot, but that's the price of being close to complete. Decided against doing any major weathering. I did a test piece on the underside and wasn't real happy with it. The camo scheme is so "busy" that added weathering, to me, detracted from it more than added to it. I wasn't going to go wild with the weathering anyway, as to me the Tau were a "cleaner-burning" species than humanity's diesel counterparts.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WY7OYJjPX3I/VUYXy5euFtI/AAAAAAAAB0Q/6-kmFM-X9J8/s1600/IMG_1109.JPG

So, its time to base the thing. I originally was going to do some cool stuff and use clear styrene rod to support it from the thrusters, until I realized how large that was going to make the base. So, I scrapped that idea and just decided to use the original base that came with it. I started by priming the whole thing in black, then decided to try out my pumice paint, as I'd never used it before. Worth a shot, as the base is kind of swallowed by the footprint of this thing anyway. I just got a paint spreader tool and went to town:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-frYXt3vRxLg/VUYXH7gbROI/AAAAAAAAB0A/HedAsbgyVJw/s1600/IMG_1110.JPG

Then, not really knowing the properties of this "paint," I added some debris from various other kits and just stuck it in there. I'm hoping it dries hard, but I'm ready to glue it down just in case. And here we are, 24 hours later and this stuff is drying very slowly. The edges have dried up, but the center is still pretty much oatmeal. Its fun to experiment and see what this stuff can do at least. Once its done, I'm just going to prime it all up, and do some really quick paint work on it to finish this piece up. At least I was able to get the underside of the Crimson Hunter sprayed and re-enclosed for a week's worth of dry time:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eV5YKTS82wE/VUYXZ35WMEI/AAAAAAAAB0I/HdWGboa_YAM/s1600/IMG_1111.JPG

[defiantworkshop]

Finally getting some work on the Eldar Crimson Hunter done. Its been a long wait (maybe unnecessarily so) while I worked on a few other kits and for the enamel to dry and harden, but time for the big payoff. Time to get the Alclad Chrome out.

I donned my gloves and went to town. Alclad actually dries quite quickly, allowing me to do both sides at once, unlike the enamel, which dries so slowly I could only do the top and bottom halves separately. I sprayed at the recommended 15 psi, and just used two very light coats. With Alclad, there's a very fine line between too little and too much. Too little, and well, you just have no paint on there. Too much, and the chrome fails to reflect the gloss black underneath, and actually dulls. When it first goes on, its a little less shiny, but dries quickly to a gorgeous mirror (you can even see I'm wearing a purple shirt!):

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sWmKG-fZcN8/VVIFPqNcQOI/AAAAAAAAB4Q/WvfaE3Xk0ls/s320/IMG_1167.JPG

While waiting on that to dry, I started up on the weaponry, clipped them and primed:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yAtMvxmV5FE/VVIFSHooIhI/AAAAAAAAB4c/CNMJskMH-K0/s320/IMG_1185.JPG

After that, its time to give it the traditional "red/black" color scheme. I started by turning it into a bumblebee:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vsQWOlJkV3U/VVIFPw57H_I/AAAAAAAAB3w/OL62G-zeoqs/s320/IMG_1175.JPG

I hit some snags with the original plan in the color scheme (you can read about them on the blog), but eventually settled on doing gloss black and clear red to keep that mirror finish on the top, and that sleek chrome on the bottom. After pulling all the masking tape off, we now have this:

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http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T4n-5VnnJjw/VVIFRpc9HcI/AAAAAAAAB4s/IBavNDhoHio/s320/IMG_1184.JPG

I won't be doing any basing on this, originally intended to display it but I'm running out of shelf room, so I'll probably end up selling the thing. To make shipping easier, I didn't want any part permanently attached, so I will just take some finished snapshots and be done with her. Thanks for coming by and looking!!!

- - - Updated - - -

I have no clue why those pictures are so small on here. You can view the full sized ones on the WIP blog space if you wish:

Doing the Chrome Work (http://defiantworkshop.blogspot.com/2015/05/wip-eldar-crimson-hunter.html)

Painting the Clear Colors (http://defiantworkshop.blogspot.com/2015/05/wip-eldar-crimson-hunter-clear-colors.html)

[defiantworkshop]

Finally got my setup for photography. Still need to work on lighting, but its enough to get these off the bench and on the display shelf.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jnyt2DVi06o/VWyL72zGL-I/AAAAAAAAB-g/jO5F90DByo4/s1600/_MG_4359.tif

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http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qfFGv7jAPHA/VWyL7yz20CI/AAAAAAAAB-Y/-oIlwiccOtk/s1600/_MG_4362.tif

[defiantworkshop]

My first shot working with Alclad Chrome. More of a test piece than anything else. Sprayed some clear red on the top to get it that sheen, kept the bottom chromed out for a sleek appearance. Thanks for looking!

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3JNYIyA6Qn8/VWyh2j7RueI/AAAAAAAAB_c/Zr0LUA2qWok/s1600/_MG_4376.tif

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http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q27vtgWs7s4/VWyh1jHU8SI/AAAAAAAAB_M/yDb0v9RM1uM/s1600/_MG_4372.tif

[Kirsten]

wow, that looks incredible

[defiantworkshop]

Fret not, folks, I'm back and working again. I have several professional and familial responsibilities that sometimes shelve me for days, even weeks at a time, and this is one of those. So, making hay while I can.

Decided to start on the Stormtalon because I really wanted to try a specific color scheme. I was actually going to do it on my Tau Devilfish, but changed the scheme once I saw how the camo was turning out. So the basic idea is to build this in larger sub assemblies. I've clipped most pieces off the sprue and discovered that masking this when complete will be near impossible, and it actually builds quite nicely on a modular level. First problem with that, though, was the engine/wing area. The turbines are quite detailed, and wedge into the "wing" (for lack of a better term) area, that then ALSO needs to be glued together. That wouldn't work, so to operate the way I need to, I had to operate:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ykJkahtlec4/VYHbHy6GieI/AAAAAAAACCQ/TojgDtEGTtE/s320/IMG_1283.JPG

When those two halves are glued, the turbine is locked in place. So, I decided to clip pieces off the back, and let the turbine "slide" in instead of clipping in. This will allow me to completely paint each piece individually without the terror of masking:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H_SgEHFhfiE/VYHbH8CbLtI/AAAAAAAACCI/iYKApoXjEBU/s320/IMG_1285.JPG

Also, before gluing the tips onto the turbine pieces, I cut some sheet styrene out and glued it in, so there isn't a gaping chasm into the inner part of the model, which, while dark, still shows off the nasty insides of the kit.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z8oQa_3I7gs/VYHbITh_vcI/AAAAAAAACCc/Wqo-daIkijU/s320/IMG_1288.JPG

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YMvhqohreKg/VYHbIDg4TOI/AAAAAAAACCM/e2rRJvbWXSo/s320/IMG_1287.JPG

Thanks for looking!

[defiantworkshop]

After a week off working hard in "real" life, I got some free time over the weekend to get some paint down. I take a lot of time planning my moves when I make models. It makes things excruciatingly more slow going, but I like to think I have less soul-crushing mistakes that make me trash a kit as well. Part of this planning process was the knowledge that I had to finish 100% of the cockpit interior before really getting to work on the kit proper.

I started by basing the inside with Tamiya's metallic black, then picking out the lights and other details. I used a few different references when painting the inside, and from looking at aircraft interiors, I wanted to give the semblance that SOME of these buttons and toggles just aren't being used. Some of them I painted as "lit" and some were just the darkest base coat to indicate them being "off." Once the glass goes on, though, you probably won't be able to see, but such is the way of the modeler...most of our time is spent on tiny middling details that nobody will notice but the maker.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uZXSuZ7TN-I/VZE1sqfZAZI/AAAAAAAACD8/uE2uwniaYRs/s1600/IMG_1317.JPG

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-09RlELDpqos/VZE1suuTCLI/AAAAAAAACDw/8rTJdc_NPBc/s1600/IMG_1318.JPG

The next step was to paint the marine. I've never really done much in the way of painting space marines, so I put this off as long as I could. He's not set up for any particular chapter, just designed to look like he fits with the color scheme I wanted for the actual vehicle, and a very low-fi paint job since the canopy glass will cover most of him anyway. I assembled the head, torso, and legs, then slid him in, since his arms actually attach to the console of the Stormtalon. Once in place, I used tweezers to place the arms in the right spots, but this made putting the shoulder pads on difficult. I used low tack tape, and put glue inside, them wedged it in place:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-myG0pBrF790/VZE1skvFbUI/AAAAAAAACDQ/OY8kOx6P8rk/s1600/IMG_1319.JPG

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7Irk27CpAFc/VZE1tBklu-I/AAAAAAAACDk/5V7961q_1J0/s1600/IMG_1320.JPG

That's it for now, thanks for looking!

[defiantworkshop]

Finally getting around to getting some paint laid down. I was able to spend a few solid days on nothing but this kit, so there's been a lot of progress.

The color scheme was inspired by those sci-fi games, and some movies, that present a sinister sterile future. A lot of these use a white/orange scheme that I wanted to borrow and create a gunship of similar style, adding some black to offset the bright colors.

After priming the whole thing white, I laid a base Tamiya white coat down on the whole thing. Even though overall surface area will be mostly black, its easier for me to mask less on the front end, than get the overall color right to start and do MORE masking for the white. So anything that remained white, after the base coat was given a couple of hours to dry, was masked off, then a base coat of orange (which goes over white better than black) was applied somewhat sloppily (because I can fix major mistakes with the black coat later).

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1flO2nStq8I/VZqB1W_IB7I/AAAAAAAACEg/w04mUoEEhzg/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg

After the orange was dry, I masked off just the orange, and sprayed my black coat down (more specifically, Tamiya NATO Black, which is almost black, but with a very slight hint of green and gray), and then pulled up my masks, including the canopy, so now the look is really starting to come together:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0h2IAwQkO4U/VZqB1JpP86I/AAAAAAAACE0/xS8Lke8E3xE/s1600/IMG_1348.JPG

A quick test fit assembly (not glued) after a few of the details were picked out, and the color scheme is looking really good, possibly my favorite combination I've done yet. What do you all think?

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kZpGolbkpVo/VZqB10iNrcI/AAAAAAAACEs/neV3NbfUe-0/s1600/IMG_1367.JPG

[defiantworkshop]

While we wait for things to dry, its time to move forward on the basing.

I usually don't do much in the way of basing my models. Its probably a hold over from all the figure kits and other resin things I've done in the past that stand alone. That being said, I didn't want to neglect the base on this one, so I decided to get all the fun things I've bought over the years out and give them a whirl.

The first thing I did was prime the base, and paint it with a generic craft paint brown. The plan was to apply Citadel's crackle paint, Agrellan Earth to it, but I wanted the cracks to display different earth under, and have something to grab on to. Then, I applied a liberal helping (practically the whole bottle) of Agrellan Earth. I took a few time lapse shots, here they are at "just applied," "15 minutes," "60 minutes,"and "Complete."

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bjBiLQhcmyQ/VZqFH_-aqdI/AAAAAAAACFI/mPgyxcs19lA/s1600/IMG_1393.JPG

Do you see the dilemma I have now? If I glued down the clear stand BEFORE the Agrellan Earth, the "sloppiness" required to get a good crackle would've covered the clear piece. But you absolutely can't glue something load bearing onto crackle paint...it will pull the crackle up and destroy your kit. So its time to improvise.

I took a diamond file and cut in 5 places for magnets, and glued them on:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0TvK2KvYVMY/VZqFHyW3PUI/AAAAAAAACFY/yoVtTJnsC-c/s320/IMG_1394.JPG

After waiting for them to dry overnight (the magnetic pull is stronger than glue!), I woke up, placed the stand gently where I wanted on the base, then got corresponding magnets and turned them loose on the underside of the base. The resulting pull put them exactly where they needed to go:


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SttYsE0dFfs/VZqGefTJG4I/AAAAAAAACF4/p8n3j0nS-UE/s320/IMG_1395.JPG

And to keep them in place permanently, a small serving of Aves Apoxie putty, with the added bonus of weighing it down at the bottom:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IH-6IayFIIg/VZqGol1TP5I/AAAAAAAACGA/Tb_oP1IiHAE/s320/IMG_1401.JPG

I then set the base down and press firmly to make sure it sits flat on the table, slide it around a bit to make sure it doesn't stick, and wait 8 or so hours for it to firm up.

Now, I can remove the stand at my leisure, and clip it back on, making shipping or transport FAR easier. It also allows me to finish basing without having to work around the clear stand. So that's what I did. The rest is easy. I just took some PVA glue, and brushed a small amount over the entire base to help seal the crackle paint, and while it was wet, added some talus rocks of different sizes and some brown moss. Once it had all dried and the crackle was sturdier, I was able to dry brush some matching color, and voila! A very basic base complete.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cZ5VBBzI808/VZqFIYMNABI/AAAAAAAACFc/6TJmtLa4qSs/s1600/IMG_1396.JPG

[defiantworkshop]

I'm really happy with how the color scheme had been coming, but once I started detailing it, the colors really started to make sense and look how I wanted them to appear. The craft has almost a "poisonous insectoid" appearance that I'm really digging.

Anyways, on with the show. I started the detailing and weathering process by going through the panel lines with a black wash. That's where the benefit of using the Tamiya NATO Black, instead of "real" black, comes in...the wash further deepens the panel lines, instead of just being more black. The NATO Black is a half step lighter than my wash, so it makes the panel lines really pop.

I also started utilizing a lot of Vallejo Chrome (which is really a white metal, not reflective like Alclad) and some Black Metal as well to offset the typical GW "Leadbelcher/Iron Breaker/Runefang" combo. A lot of the Stormtalons that I researched used edge painting to increase depth, but with such a liberal use of white, it was going to be difficult to edge highlight to a higher tone, so instead I went lower, using Vallejo Charcoal as an edge paint almost, to weather the corners and lines. I used Necron Compound for the black pieces:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d3lhuiaEAo8/VZqH-_hgsEI/AAAAAAAACG4/zf_n3owCgMo/s1600/IMG_1372.JPG

By now, its getting close to the individual pieces being ready to be glued together, and I'm super impatient when it comes to that...so despite my better intuitions, I glued it all together anyway, once the detailing and weathering was done.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ghEplZx41M4/VZqH--sxNxI/AAAAAAAACGw/CElLhFZWVBQ/s1600/IMG_1374.JPG

[defiantworkshop]

Adding decals to really make this stand out.

I fortunately had quite a few "warning" and other text and detail decals left over from my SAFS Snowman kit I finished a while back. I applied a few of those on the Stormtalon, eschewing the kit decals, which are dreadful and gigantic. I thought the smaller caution text decals were a better fit for what I wanted to accomplish.

Some of them, however, are a little too shiny and new. This is easily remedied.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tuRnHzLs29A/VZqH_Xdm4fI/AAAAAAAACGo/EY8FKzPS2E0/s1600/IMG_1399.JPG

After applying the decal, lightly, lightly dab it with a cotton swab, and press the water out of it. Let it sit for a few hours and dry up. Then I take an Xacto blade and make random scrapes and cuts across it. Then, add a little bit of weathering powder, or even chalk pastel, to the top to give it that grimy, worn look:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uPui3nTiks4/VZqH_t7AC9I/AAAAAAAACGs/TP80uGchqgQ/s1600/IMG_1400.JPG

The difference is well worth the small amount of time to get it right. From there, its time to seal it, and call this guy complete! Full pictures to come soon, thanks for visiting!
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dh2b_YYe-Os/VZqH-_r-lWI/AAAAAAAACGY/2M6Hjz78DBE/s1600/IMG_1387.JPG

[Kirsten]

colour scheme is fantastic

[40kGamer]

Great save with the magnets! Very nice looking model.

[defiantworkshop]

Thanks everyone! Magnets had me nervous, b/c there's not a ton of surface area for them to grab on to. Fortunately it worked out OK. Did learn that clear plastic melts into a liquid when Dremeled, instead of shredding like gray plastic.... :eek:

[40kGamer]

Yikes! Hadn't thought about the dremel effect on clear plastic! I'm usually too lazy to dig mine out so I drill by hand. :D

[defiantworkshop]

Haha...I hadn't considered either. My worst effect was it would gum up from getting hot, but not running like candle wax. The only reason I took the dremel out was because the middle magnet was a good bit larger, don't know the exact size, but drilling would've taken days. Plus, drilling instead of sanding left me with more of a "dome" to put the magnets in, as opposed to a flush area with more contact space, which is why I went with the needle files. Works out great though. Enough "grab" to keep the Stormtalon completely secure and upright, yet gentle enough to take apart and put together that it doesn't disturb the notoriously weak Agrellan Earth underneath.

[defiantworkshop]

Here's the finished product, hope you all enjoy! I'll save the bandwidth, you can check out more pictures here. (http://defiantworkshop.blogspot.com/2015/07/model-showcase-stormtalon-games-workshop.html)

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q7S5n-6tUns/VZ5nOfAYxmI/AAAAAAAACKY/KC8f4Rd6iFE/s1600/_MG_4402.tif

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dqDy_zuT--4/VZ5nO3nbwuI/AAAAAAAACKI/Ttxq9Rl3Xp8/s1600/_MG_4405.tif

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5mzqoguo3dk/VZ5nPGwDyRI/AAAAAAAACJs/hCwO47l4vMw/s1600/_MG_4406.tif

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EY8RDLAqh1Q/VZ5nP1rwnwI/AAAAAAAACKM/z7PwAYsdnOs/s1600/_MG_4409.tif

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MOxaffr-tg0/VZ5nOb8PInI/AAAAAAAACJY/iFlbJRu__0M/s1600/_MG_4404.tif

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-598wZ0vFsME/VZ5nP-embQI/AAAAAAAACKU/7BCEJWdkSFg/s1600/_MG_4410.tif

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--Q5cojPSTXE/VZ5nQI6xYzI/AAAAAAAACKE/3AOAJ761SDY/s1600/_MG_4411.tif

[Lurker]

Wow, fantastic work. That Crimson Hunter- until you pointed out that you were wearing a purple shirt, I thought you had done the ridges in clear purple! (It was breath-taking I might add). the finished Hunter is Gorgeous!
I had to laugh a little though, cause that base is hardly Basic! it is a work of art in its own right! I hadn't thought of magnetizing the stands. Great work!

[defiantworkshop]

Thanks Lurker for the kind comments!

I wish I could keep posting more on here...but I bounce from Warhammer to several other types of models as well. Just b/c I'm silent on here doesn't mean I'm not active! ;)

[defiantworkshop]

Dang, its been ages since I've posted here. Staying busy with Sigmar on one hand, getting ready for new things on the other. In the meantime, finished the GK HQs for a client over the weekend:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nD_CXVVvjg4/ViT0bb1pzPI/AAAAAAAACiI/XKpozGM-Cng/s320/_MG_4446.tif

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y8YUYH2B5Gg/ViT0b7_9AeI/AAAAAAAACiQ/NDozRcnsZaw/s320/_MG_4448%2Bcopy.tif

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6-4T4z8n6P4/ViT0bb2udbI/AAAAAAAACiM/SwgB9h_MTOg/s320/_MG_4444.tif

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ud8AYPVWPwI/ViT0bbyN8LI/AAAAAAAACiE/CmTw_W8dA5o/s320/_MG_4445%2Bcopy.tif

He wanted cork board style bases to match his existing army, so I broke up some that I had laying around and pinned the models to it. Not bad for a quick two day project.

[defiantworkshop]

Been away with a bunch of other projects...just finished up some commissions and have a regional model contest I've done some sci fi work for, but I'm managing to squeeze in a mini every now and again. Started work on the Eversor Assassin. There was a song back in the day I listened to that had some really cool mental imagery it made, and this guy played the part of a character in it very well...modified, spindly, death dealer. I wanted to go with a futuristic cyber stealth suit look, rather than the traditional look, to fit the character I have in my head.

First things first, I decided to work on the base. The structure that comes with him is pretty cool, and I like the departure GW has with adding a bit of scenery to their figures, but the structure doesn't cover the whole works of the actual base. A lot of shots have it just texture painted in the negative space, but I went a step further. First thing I did was get some diamond treadplate styrene sheet and cut it to shape, glue to the base, and sand it to fit the circle. Then I added some strips of styrene and randomly hacked away at them and glued them down:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UfqfkDqynKQ/Vq9bRpf2aXI/AAAAAAAACwU/MYuICO7378k/s1600/IMG_2175.JPG

Then I dremeled/sanded the edges down so they were flush to the base after that. I dislike the aesthetic of having things hang off the edges.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v3IBnUIZPDE/Vq9bRo7l3oI/AAAAAAAACwQ/P6G6m5PSNn4/s1600/IMG_2177.JPG

And it looks much better after priming!

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-exttqe5ucD0/Vq9bRihk3eI/AAAAAAAACwM/_126wI6maWU/s1600/IMG_2178.JPG

Also primed up the Assassin himself, but nothing out of the ordinary here.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CMofZeIiiHI/Vq9bSIy5KtI/AAAAAAAACwI/6Y3bVWchDOY/s1600/IMG_2179.JPG

Thanks for looking!!!

[Cactus]

I suddenly want a chrome Eldar army... Awesome stuff.

[defiantworkshop]

Thanks Cactus! Stay tuned...the Assassin might give you reason to consider that. The chrome goes on better on the minis than it did on my Hunter. I also changed my methodology up on it, so the chrome looks great now; I wasn't 100% happy with how it turned out on the Hunter, but it was more of a practice piece to learn what does and doesn't work. Updates and pics coming soon of a chromed assassin....

[defiantworkshop]

Time to put paint to the Assassin himself! Like I stated above, I wanted to diverge from the standard paint job on this one, and do a more cyber future stealthy version, so I wanted to do some blacks, grays, and blue greens. For some reason, that's just what popped into my head. I started by spraying him in gloss black enamel, which wreaked havoc with my camera. I did this a few days ago and finished up some commission work while I waited, b/c enamels take a good long while to dry.

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7fkbafDZuQc/Vuas5B2WTwI/AAAAAAAAC3k/s1y4BkjofysjkV_2N4plIBdl5Sl7ZDoRQ/s1600/IMG_2383.JPG

So while he dried I finished some Ravenwings, and when I came back a few days later, he was gassed out and ready for a quick chrome application:

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4jwkc2NEZnI/Vuas5t6bKOI/AAAAAAAAC4A/Idcqhz_7cq0JEFDEBGtFZA7uUm-ytl__A/s1600/IMG_2403.JPG

From there, I based him back out, since the chrome is a lacquer, it can be safely painted over, so just based him in plain ol' Abaddon Black, then some quick highlights to bring it out, and then I greened up his armor and accessories as well.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-59nQ-QJLGHU/Vuas5jXwoiI/AAAAAAAAC4A/iY1bbgS9vlMuzmaY1C6u18E5KQ6oHxxBg/s1600/IMG_2406.JPG

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UhdQX5P4Hsg/Vuas59Tt3XI/AAAAAAAAC4A/tKNofypp110iMk42SnkcSInuH3eienk2Q/s1600/IMG_2407.JPG

[defiantworkshop]

Went with a different color scheme, more of a "stealth suit" approach than the traditional paint job. Chromed the skull, went with a more sci fi clean approach for the corridor base, and added some wiring in the conduit pipe.

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eyEdVKjeOKo/VvrXrz7zxlI/AAAAAAAAC7w/4iqjZ86wUKosPPqtClnSDvZefMiheBPFQ/s1600/_MG_4759.tif

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j-Bkdp0n6kQ/VvrXnBgJ8CI/AAAAAAAAC7s/ehjeqdPdxagouAvHI80rhoZnd3SyaijEw/s1600/_MG_4755.tif

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dJ5fuBMF_HY/VvrXmbmfygI/AAAAAAAAC7o/p2oE56wCKXgzQIyqvsWSar89c2hKwgWfQ/s1600/_MG_4756.tif

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y75fRSrOvCM/VvrXsHLXhUI/AAAAAAAAC70/SiqNLX8xbKAcVCBKuvJZpw-O4vZsoG6EA/s1600/_MG_4761.tif

Thanks for looking!

[defiantworkshop]

Had this drop pod mostly built in sub-assemblies for a while now, so it was time to clear some closet stock for more kits.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xtNscFKC8tw/VwJw1_fn8VI/AAAAAAAAC-A/w0F64BqMtqYMYhdsGin_HYXz9nM7UmO2Q/s1600/IMG_2503.JPG

When I built the two halves of the opening panels, I placed magnets on the inside. The panels had a tendency to flop open due to gravity and too much wiggle room, so I planned on placing magnets on the inside of the panels and the base. The magnets you see are attracted to the ones inside, these aren't where I placed the actual ones for the panel:

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mfo2LRiUrQ0/VwJwrVOQcKI/AAAAAAAAC90/_hSGca8ywZEnEYcP0qCNv1enUH4v5jRtw/s1600/IMG_2497.JPG

From there, I marked the panels 1 through 5, and put one magnet per panel at the base. If you do more than one, they start attracting each other, even through putty, so you have to give enough time for the putty to cure a bit before doing the second set per panel, if that makes sense? Also, just in case the polarities are different per panel, it helps to mark which panel corresponds to which side of the base. In the end, I have the whole works covered in putty. This also keeps the piece bottom heavy, which is an added bonus.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q14a2tau7-s/VwJwre8UpBI/AAAAAAAAC9w/gtL7Y-X4xHI3MAXau71FYLPE-7rkejpDw/s1600/IMG_2498.JPG

Now that those are attached, you can see that the piece now stands upright on its own. The magnets in the base and the panels have just enough attraction to "lock" the panels upright, but aren't so strong that they don't allow for you to easily open the pod to show off the inside.

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TqrhqzQNAng/VwJwrqXK5-I/AAAAAAAAC98/sTuXa1De9Vo-mGF1WoM07kthMQYpx3HOw/s1600/IMG_2500.JPG

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XGq-_KBzS7I/VwJwrUR0F5I/AAAAAAAAC94/r7237Ajacfk9mXf30Nm_iwtqh93heThGg/s1600/IMG_2499.JPG

I had to hold the piece down for the picture, since I will glue the two base halves after painting, and with all those magnets, they push the base around a bit when not in the attract position, but that won't be an issue when the base is glued down. Now its on to priming and painting. Thanks for looking!

[defiantworkshop]

Starting to airbrush the Drop Pod after a quick airbrush reboot! I took a quick detour while I disassembled and cleaned my airbrush to start this by painting Groot really quick, but its time to get back on track. I wanted to do this in the same color scheme I did the Stormtalon, just for consistency. I don't have any army in this scheme, I just really like how it looks together. Started by painting the supports in Tamiya NATO Black, like before. The NATO Black is just a bit lighter than regular black, with what looks like a touch of green to it. Here's the NATO black painted posts next to a primed piece in Chaos black to show the difference.

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R5jByLRzocU/VwebEsW_e5I/AAAAAAAAC-g/zepMc15LjZAa5Q-CGCLA-Ez0lfCYvhTiA/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg

As you can see, it is useful in that it makes your brain think its black, but gives you a step down to go to for shading. From there, I sprayed the opening panels in white (primed in gray). Sprayed from an angle so as to let the panels have some pre-shade.

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f1XbhlA0e0U/VwebE2KegWI/AAAAAAAAC-o/U847IRcm6YkJR5kxJx4hBF4KWAim2Zy3w/s1600/IMG_2511.JPG

From there, it was an evening of applying masking tape, after taking the kids to practice to let the white paint sufficiently dry. Then two light coats of orange, and one final "wet" coat to even it all out, and this is what I netted:

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MCrzA39Ehro/VwebEq4EiYI/AAAAAAAAC-s/cNx2AQGlZhsSINk5dxVCPfyPsVex4gE3Q/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B%25281%2529.jpg

Right now the colors seem stark, and I thought they were when I first painted the Stormtalon, but they look great and really that to work well together when the shading and weathering goes on. Stay tuned for that! Thanks for looking!

[defiantworkshop]

So after laying paint down on the panels and posts, I slapped some paint onto the harnesses and central console, getting ready to put them inside and start gluing the pieces together. If I was more patient, I'd wait and weather everything, the build it all, but I'm not, so I built it, and will now weather it as a whole. Kind of a six of one, half a dozen of another situation.

The main interior was sprayed with Alclad Magnesium paint, then immediately after with Steel, which is this almost gritty looking, dull metallic paint. Honestly not the biggest fan, but it does give it the look I was after, a used, dirty, worn interior where Space Marines in large heavy armor trod daily. I did the magnesium paint first to give it a shiny look, then sprayed the steel unevenly across it to make it splotchy, like at one point this thing looked pretty good. I then gave it the requisite washes, highlights, etc.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X6QKHir6sYY/VwuUNtQ-yII/AAAAAAAAC_Q/SuEDU9b-s-Yv1c3GpB8dJiJcSDvgcjGaw/s1600/IMG_2523.JPG

I didn't really know what to do with the top of the central console. I've seen some use it like a radar orb, but honestly, doing straight lines and concentric circles on a sphere by hand isn't my strong suit. I decided I'd try a 3D "hologram" look, like advanced tech showing where they're landing. While most of the worlds a Space Marine would travel to are probably quite alien looking, I decided to make it more earth-like in appearance to give a better idea of what I was trying to convey, since an earth-like world would be instantly more recognizable. I got a few different blue colors, and just slathered them on in different intervals and strokes, and then used some of GW's Armageddon Dust texture paint, stippled on, then washed in brown and highlighted with green to give the appearance of landmasses with various topographies. Shame is, it looks decent considering I was just winging it, and will be mostly covered by the turret in the middle.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--WVgP_3jjFY/VwuUNtHDRyI/AAAAAAAAC_Y/gz4YewvXSH4APbcnlPlwDKqoE7lT5gj1A/s1600/IMG_2524.JPG



After all that was glued down, it was time to add the final posts and turret in the middle. The fit was a little tight since I did it out of order, but painting was a breeze in the subassemblies, so no complaints here. Also, the magnets are doing their job well, holding the drop panels up in a lock position, while being easily opened without any mechanical pieces to do that work.

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2dEg5cmJ3yg/VwuUN0hn1zI/AAAAAAAAC_U/uIO78B4GhVY8WFvHwYIwjiEXcCcE0mejQ/s1600/IMG_2527.JPG

So next, I'll be washing, weathering, and generally messing up the paint work you see here. This will tone down the brightness of the orange and white, and honestly, I plan on really getting on it, since this thing theoretically drops through serious conditions in the game fluff, so I might go a little heavy on the weathering. Until next time, thanks for looking!

[defiantworkshop]

Moving on...

So started off with plain white and orange like you can see above. From there, I just ripped off a bit of a makeup sponge and dabbed it in some Rhinox Hide from Citadel, and dabbed it randomly, but mostly along the edges of the orange and white.

I then took some Tamiya weathering powders and rubbed them around. Some Oil Stain and Soot at the bottom to recreate the look of atmospheric entry. On the white, around where I dabbed the Rhinox Hide, I put on just a bit of Rust and Orange Rust.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pGoqQF2uyuE/Vw4yQohFaFI/AAAAAAAAC_8/90QlGlJjmp0WFHMV-6C8stEqH8pcRntDw/s1600/IMG_2537.JPG

Next up, I got the airbrush back out, and went over the atmospheric entry strokes, and the inside of the silver metallics, with Alclad's Burnt Iron....

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sDaCz6rpzH4/Vw4yQ47_nDI/AAAAAAAAC_8/NYXpkhiJfnsalUKefUf6BGu6N-OuGqiZg/s1600/IMG_2540.JPG

Then just a touch of Exhaust Manifold....a very very dark copper color, which more gives the slight metallic hint of burnt metal. In a light coat, its almost indistinguishable from the Burnt Iron color I just put on. But when it catches the light in the right way, it gives this burnt metal sheen I really like:

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--czl-mKt3h0/Vw4yQ0FkClI/AAAAAAAAC_8/4hBHBFCEyes2Z5QWksQ3SNSqRpoX_XAOQ/s1600/IMG_2539.JPG

And that's it! Calling this one finished, so I'll try to take pictures this afternoon. Thanks for tuning in!!!

[defiantworkshop]

And the final shots:

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4WP7-KWB3uw/Vw7g1UMftNI/AAAAAAAADAk/nDUSbtbh794lK1lyGjgDOBagsw0cyugmgCLcB/s1600/_MG_4769.tif

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xIK7ZWxySZg/Vw7g1QVzmMI/AAAAAAAADAg/X6Q37mlOTIsHBAyH_qp1r5zxYiTMabg-gCKgB/s1600/_MG_4768.tif

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--yT-Xy0Aw-8/Vw7g3HHIYSI/AAAAAAAADAo/2YT6FxltyR8Y7alegDxToIRhoTKoEz25gCKgB/s1600/_MG_4770.tif

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9JuDifWX4jE/Vw7g6i3xodI/AAAAAAAADAs/1K-93VLPJNwzHjONXxb8DzcEawy9VGX4QCKgB/s1600/_MG_4771.tif

You can see a rotating view of it here. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GeXZJqBPow) Thanks for looking!