Resin Junkie: Project XIV

[ResinJunkie]

Hello BoLS!

Last summer I bought a bunch of FW 30k Death Guard on a whim. (http://resinjunkie.co.uk/2014/08/06/wipwednesday-resinjunkie-gets-his-fix/) Now this has remained unbuilt which is a travesty if I do say so myself! So for my New Years Resolution (http://resinjunkie.co.uk/2014/12/31/happy-new-year-all-the-best-in-0-001-015-m21/) I decided I was going to get all of this built and painted for the end of April for a game in Warhammer World.

To get to the end of this project I have started using a Kanban board (https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/kanbanchi/jjnjkolifmlkjdnnbjghoaiaiajmlded?hl=en) (attached) and doing #HobbyHour (https://twitter.com/search?q=%23hobbyhour&src=typd). As you can tell I've been inspired by Carl from The Independent Characters.

So far I've post 3 updates on my blog (http://resinjunkie.co.uk/) using these methods:
Project XIV Introduction (http://resinjunkie.co.uk/2015/01/19/project-xiv-introduction/)
Hobby Progress 26/02/2015 (http://resinjunkie.co.uk/2015/01/26/hobby-progress-26012015/)
Project XIV: Update 02/02/2015 (http://resinjunkie.co.uk/2015/02/02/project-xiv-update-02022015/)

This has all been focused around the building of the army and not that visually interesting, however I'm getting very close to finishing and moving into the painting stage and I want to start sharing this project here on BoLS so I can get feedback, help, advice and support. Because let's face it you guys rule!

TL : DR

I'm building a Heresy Death Guard army here's a selection of the best images from the building process.

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If you want to see daily progress you can follow me on twitter: @ResinJunkie (https://twitter.com/resinjunkie) and I'll be doing weekly updates here and on my blog. (http://resinjunkie.co.uk/)

Thanks all!
- ResinJunkie

[ResinJunkie]

Not the most productive update this week as I focused on the Apothecary model:

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You can see more thorough progress on my blog here (http://resinjunkie.co.uk/2015/02/09/project-xiv-update-09022015/).

I aim to try and finish him this week and work towards completing a 5 man tactical squad for a local GW painting competition.

Comments & Criticism is encouraged!

-ResinJunkie

[ResinJunkie]

Another week another update!

I got the Apothecary all but finished (he needs his backpack and base done) and I made good progress on the first Tactical Squad.

As always pics below and a link to my blog for all the gory details!

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Please feel free to leave any question/comments/criticism.

Thanks
-ResinJunkie

[Lord Commissar Maxwell]

What colors have you used for that tactical squad? I have been having trouble finding the right colors for my deathguard.

[Lord Ezekial]

Hey resin Junkie! Love the look of your death Guard! Like the lord Commissar I have to ask how you are painting yours. It looks like a skull white, but what kind of shade are you using? Also how did get that dirty look on your Apothecary? that's the kind of the look I am going for but mine often don't come out like that. I tend to get more of a cream color.

Example is attached

Thanks for the Advice and Keep up the good work!

[ResinJunkie]

I realise looking over my blog that I'm missing key steps of the process in picture form but I'll try and explain.

Oh and fair warning it's NOT the most time efficient scheme.

Step 1 - Priming
I'm priming in white (Halford Car Primer if you're in the UK). Then I use White Scar watered down to hit any areas the undercoat is patchy, be careful with the car spray its thick and tough to remove if you overspray a model.

Step 2 - Washing
I had a soare pot which I mixed 50/50 Seraphim Sepia and Lahmian Medium, don't slap this on too heavy its really on there to bring out the details. Avoid pooling and dense build up.

When this dries it should be very cream looking.

Step 3 - Highlights
Again with the White Scar, put it on your pallet and water it down a lot, 50/50 using either Lahmian Medium or Water. Then paint over the cream, the white is super thin so you can build up from the cream to an almost pure white, I usually leave the gradient bigger on the bottom as that's naturally where the grime would accumulate.

I'd say if you were going Pre-Heresy, little to no corruption you could stop here. But me I'm all about the grime! Oh and this is also the point I apply transfers onto the White parts of the armour.

Step 4 - Weathering Part 1
Now for the grey chips etc. For this I use a chunk of sponge that I pick at to create a texture on. I dip this in Skavenblight Dinge and remove excess (like drybrushing) then gently add to raised areas/to taste. Remember sometimes less is more.

I also use the same effect on the greens but swap the colour out for a darker Rhynox Hide.

Step 5 - Sealing
I use a Matte Varnish (Purity Seal, I know there are better but I need to use this up first) it needs to be sealed well as we're going to use White Spirits and that can damage paint. I try where possible to do green after this step to stop it being dulled down and in the case of Purity if it frosts you can hardly tell on white.

Step 6 - Weathering Part 2
Now here I'm using AK interactive Rust Wash and Streaking Fluid.

Apply the Rust wash liberally, I usually focus on bolts and the lower indents on armour. This doesn't have to be perfect as you apply White spirits it will blend it.

Then using the Streaking Fluid, draw some lines with a thin brush coming from areas water would from. Then add a little white spirit to a brush, clear any excess and gently run it over the line it will turn it into a streak that runs down the armour.

Okay my lunch hours up, I'll give you the greens I use and the metal later.

Let me know how you get on please :D

- ResinJunkie

[Lord Commissar Maxwell]

I realise looking over my blog that I'm missing key steps of the process in picture form but I'll try and explain.

Oh and fair warning it's NOT the most time efficient scheme.

Step 1 - Priming
I'm priming in white (Halford Car Primer if you're in the UK). Then I use White Scar watered down to hit any areas the undercoat is patchy, be careful with the car spray its thick and tough to remove if you overspray a model.

Step 2 - Washing
I had a soare pot which I mixed 50/50 Seraphim Sepia and Lahmian Medium, don't slap this on too heavy its really on there to bring out the details. Avoid pooling and dense build up.

When this dries it should be very cream looking.

Step 3 - Highlights
Again with the White Scar, put it on your pallet and water it down a lot, 50/50 using either Lahmian Medium or Water. Then paint over the cream, the white is super thin so you can build up from the cream to an almost pure white, I usually leave the gradient bigger on the bottom as that's naturally where the grime would accumulate.

I'd say if you were going Pre-Heresy, little to no corruption you could stop here. But me I'm all about the grime! Oh and this is also the point I apply transfers onto the White parts of the armour.

Step 4 - Weathering Part 1
Now for the grey chips etc. For this I use a chunk of sponge that I pick at to create a texture on. I dip this in Skavenblight Dinge and remove excess (like drybrushing) then gently add to raised areas/to taste. Remember sometimes less is more.

I also use the same effect on the greens but swap the colour out for a darker Rhynox Hide.

Step 5 - Sealing
I use a Matte Varnish (Purity Seal, I know there are better but I need to use this up first) it needs to be sealed well as we're going to use White Spirits and that can damage paint. I try where possible to do green after this step to stop it being dulled down and in the case of Purity if it frosts you can hardly tell on white.

Step 6 - Weathering Part 2
Now here I'm using AK interactive Rust Wash and Streaking Fluid.

Apply the Rust wash liberally, I usually focus on bolts and the lower indents on armour. This doesn't have to be perfect as you apply White spirits it will blend it.

Then using the Streaking Fluid, draw some lines with a thin brush coming from areas water would from. Then add a little white spirit to a brush, clear any excess and gently run it over the line it will turn it into a streak that runs down the armour.

Okay my lunch hours up, I'll give you the greens I use and the metal later.

Let me know how you get on please :D

- ResinJunkie

Thanks for the step by step! This should really help with getting that off-white I've been looking to get!

[ResinJunkie]

Thanks for the step by step! This should really help with getting that off-white I've been looking to get!

No problem, I'll try and take more pictures so I can show better then describe what's going on.

[Lord Ezekial]

Hey Resin Junkie!

Thanks a lot mate! I appreciate the advice, I am definitely going to try out the weathering on some grave wardens I ordered

[ResinJunkie]

Hello all! Long time no update, I've been out of the country and busy with work so my progress has been stunted. But alas here's an update.

Shoulder pads progress:
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Rust and Streaking washes and base bronze:
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Flesh for the Sargents head:
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It's around this point I've really started to lose motivation with these models. They have gone on for too long and I don't normally batch paint and missing the sense of gratification from finishing a model so I put time into getting one almost finished to inspire me again, so I worked on the Sargent. And seeing it all come together I'm ecstatic with the painting and now am more determined than ever to finish!

Here he is:
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Thanks all for looking!

- ResinJunkie

[ResinJunkie]

Still working on this Tactical Squad, hoping to get these put to bed this week. The remaining work is in the bronze edges on the armour and the face masks so I should get these done and as a reward I'm going to treat myself and work on something cool, like Typhon maybe.

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I did push again to get one totally finished:
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Thanks all for looking!

- ResinJunkie

[ResinJunkie]

I've neglected this thread for a while but I am at a snails pace starting to get traction on this project.

I did finish the unit above you can see pictures below:
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Over the coming days/weeks I'll start posting more updates!

Thanks
- ResinJunkie

[Kirsten]

looking really great

[ResinJunkie]

A little off topic from the Death Guard today, but I don't want to start a new thread for everything I'm doing. So, here's the latest thing I've finished. It and Ultramarines Chaplain I did for a friend, the base is incomplete as he will base it when he decides how.

For me, I'm super proud of this. It might be the best thing I've painted yet.
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As usual comments and criticism is welcome. It's how we learn after all!

- ResinJunkie

[ResinJunkie]

No painting this week, I'm trying to assemble/sub-assemble as much as possible, this week I got my Contemptor together with an unusual Missile Pod placement and wrestled with a LR kit.

Contemptor:
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Land Raider:
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As you can see the LR has lots of gaps that I need to Green Stuff and the FW front doors don't quite fit right so I have to GS up the hinges.

Thanks for looking!

- ResinJunkie

[Kirsten]

interesting idea on the missiles. not sure if I like it, but it is good to see something different.

[ResinJunkie]

Some might argue its modeled to an advantage as it shortens the profile. But I just didnt like the bunny ear missile pods. It throughs the whole aesthetics of the models off.

[Kirsten]

I don't think there is any advantage there. I like the top mounted launcher myself, but fair play for moving it if you don't. the pic just of the missiles on the sides of the assault cannons works for me, but on the dread, doesn't, weirdly.

[ResinJunkie]

Finished my latest building project, Spartan Assault tank. I was nervous approaching this as I have heard that the Spartan and the Fire Raptor are 2 of the most difficult kits to assemble. The tracks are especially notorious.

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I build this kit in a straight sitting of 6 hours (minus the above prep) and damn it was a challenge, easily the hardest kit I've ever built and while I did fall foul of the dreaded tracks, it was minor and I made sure the mismatch was hidden on the bottom.

The most difficult part was removing the flash on the track assmblies. It's attached in between wheels so is difficult to get in and remove it, but it is also needs to be clean as the tracks sit in the grooves. I could not have built this kit if I hadn't bought a Dremel. It was the only way to get in and remove the flash and clear the grooves. So if you have to build one I highly recommend getting one.

1535715358

Thanks!

ResinJunkie

[Kirsten]

yeah I really want a Fire Raptor and have heard the same complaints. good job on the spartan

[ResinJunkie]

Another week and another model finished, this was a Behemoth! Well a Super heavy! This week I built the Legion Fell Blade from Forgeworld.

Washing, required me to upgrade from a mixing bowl to a Washing Up bowl.
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Building was a breeze compared to the Spartain, I had a little trouble with the front and rear wheel assemblies but nothing that couldn't be rectified by holding in vice grip.
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I just wanted to showcase a little of the magnetisation for the crew, I magnetised them into the ports but also magnetised the hatches. I hate the fiddly bits you glue on and end up snapping off, so this way they will just get knocked off and I can reattach.
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Thanks for looking!

-ResinJunkie

[ResinJunkie]

After weeks of posting nothing but grey as I've had a mad dash to build lots of stuff I figure it's time to share some painting.

Last month I entered my local GW painting competition with a Typhon I've painted, I came second. I'm happy with that and one day I'll win one of the damn things.

Here's some WIP progress shots:
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And finally, the finished thing:
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You can see in the last shot his magnetised hand, I did this as I was worried that it might get damaged in transit.

As usual C&C is very welcome and If you want to see more frequent updates, please feel free to follow me on Twiiter @ResinJunkie (https://mobile.twitter.com/resinjunkie)

Thanks for looking.

- ResinJunkie