Casting Homemade Resin Bases

[johnnyfoodmaster]

Hey all!
I've been searching the internets for the past couple of days for tutorials and info on how to cast home made resin bases.

I'm thinking of doing my own bases for an upcoming army and was wondering if anyone has a good link or tutorial for something related specifically to making resin bases for 40k.

Working with resin is really interesting me, and I think it'd be fun to sculpt bases with green stuff and then mass produce them for fun and profit...well..fun at least.

Any help would be great. I searched the forums here and didn't come up with anything. Thanks in advance!

[lobster-overlord]

This is the basics of how I do it.

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/basics/jc_molds.htm

John M>

[Diehard]

How to make resin wargame bases

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rc5h-mNmPD4

[TheBitzBarn]

Great Link Thanks

[johnnyfoodmaster]

Thanks for the replies guys! After my research, I'm going to start with the Smooth On starter kit. It seems to be highly recommended.

I'm working on some designs right now for my upcoming IG army.

[warderbrad]

I am interested in knowing how it went. Any hints you would give to others wanting to do the same thing? I have made a few custom bases and have decided to make some "master" bases and cast them in resin. I just want to know what I am getting into.

[chromedog]

It's more cost effective than any other kind of casting (looks around nervously - look, I didn't mention the 'forbidden arts' ok?).

You only need a 1 side mould, so easier to make.

Some RTV rubbers will bond instantly to PVA (and permanently). Use a mould release agent and an agitation table to minimise bubbles.

[warderbrad]

Some RTV rubbers will bond instantly to PVA (and permanently). Use a mould release agent and an agitation table to minimise bubbles. I have read people using stuff like cooking spary for the mold release, does that really work?
when you say agitation table what are we talking about here? Can I make it myself?


It's more cost effective than any other kind of casting (looks around nervously - look, I didn't mention the 'forbidden arts' ok?). Not sure which "forbidden arts" you are talking about. --Not sarcastically said.

[chromedog]

Some RTVs react badly to oil based 'release agents' - it's one of those "check and see things". It's listed in the instructions usually. It's the heat resistant ones mostly, In my experience. Worst case: They prevent the RTV from setting. So you have to start again.

Talcum powder works well for resin, though. Make your mould, sprinkle in talc (make sure to cover the internal surfaces) and then dump the excess (upend onto a surface and tap). The powder will stick to the resin and prevent the rubber sticking to the resin. It also works as a 'filler' with certain resins (up to 50% - think of it as "resin helper" - like 'hamburger helper' but for resin).

My agitation table was home made. I took an old orbital sander (the ones that use the rectangular sheets, not the round spinny drill like attachment ones - one like this: http://www.chinatraderonline.com/Files/Household/Machinery/Orbital-Sander/Orbital-Sander-20455168066.jpg) that had a broken trigger. My brother in law wired up a power switch and a speed control (rotary knob) - he's an electrician - a plate was bolted to the base plate and the entire thing was mounted UPSIDE DOWN on a frame.

In use, you clamp the mould to the plate, turn it on, and slowly turn the speed up (it doesn't need much. It's to 'encourage' the bubbles to leave quicker). It was cheaper than a pressure pot.

"The forbidden arts" is a hidden reference amongst people who know the intricacies of casting and moulding. Especially in regards to 2+ sided moulds and the copying of complex parts. GW (and by extension, most boards) doesn't like people to know about these arts as they CAN be used for illegal purposes.

Rather like dvd burners and a computer with the right software.
They CAN be used for nefarious purposes, but the parts in and of themselves are not illegal.

[lobster-overlord]

GW (and by extension, most boards) doesn't like people to know about these arts as they CAN be used for illegal purposes.

Rather like dvd burners and a computer with the right software.
They CAN be used for nefarious purposes, but the parts in and of themselves are not illegal.

Actually, having done this for years, and having talked extensively with a major toy manufacturer, the parts cast technically CAN BE illegal (depending on your locality and the laws around youl. However, if you arn't selling them, and arn't on their radar, there's nothing they can/will generally do :-)

Copying parts like this doesn't fall under anything like "fair use." And is generally considered theft/infringement since any copy will diminish the value of an original, even in the possession of the caster. (I was not asked to stop, only to keep from copying anything currently in production for the parts I was making related to action figure customizing)

That being said, if you're using a GW base, and making your own decoration/terrain on it, and then casting it, There 's not going to be a problem, even if you sell it, as you've altered it from it's original state significantly enough.

[Lane]

Anybody know how GW reacts to producing/ selling items that match their style but do not use any GW product as part of the design?

I have a couple projects in progress that plan on selling in (at least) limited numbers. These will be 100% scratch built but would like to be very close in style or based on GW artwork.

[chromedog]

Badly.

They will claim all kinds of things - and hope that you know less about the legal loopholes than their legal staff do, and can't afford to fight them in court. In 99% of cases, they'll be right.

If you don't do it in a GW store or advertise widely that you are doing them, they won't really know.
The quieter you keep it, the less they will see. The more overt you are, the heavier the beat down will be.