Blackadder's Chaos Warhounds; Two WIPs

[Blackadder]

Blackadder's Chaos Warhounds:

I have become incredibly ambitious. After cleaning, priming and basic painting the Hierophant and waiting for the paint to dry I looked around for something else to work on. My son is coming home from college for ten days this month so I thought I'd surprise him by cleaning the flash, vents and manufacturing errors on our two Chaos Titans. We are at odds as to what theme to paint them I lean more to a mottled green and he to a red. I don't suppose that they have to match colour-wise. I would appreciate input in this regard.

This is the colouration I have chosen for my Chaos Titan with a few amendments.

http://i.imgur.com/DdKhvcX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DdKhvcXl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LkMwqBI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LkMwqBIl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/If9uCUT.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/If9uCUTl.jpg

Anyway it took me about two hours each to trim of the non-titan material and they are ready to paint. No pictures as yet as we have all seen kit form Chaos Titans and I have the parts separated in zip lock sandwich bags. I am very enthused about tackling a Chaos interior since the Tyranid army has many similar aspects.


Here's a little quiz to see of you can qualify as an aircraft inspector.

Take a close look at the nicely painted titan above and see why it always looked strange to me I just couldn't put my finger on it; the problem being you expect things to be as they are supposed to be.

Closer inspection revealed six major mistakes in the build................

See if you can find them (Note left and right hand anomalies count as one; multiple anomalies of the same parts count as one.)

Note, the sixth one is toughest to find

[interrogator_chaplain]

You know I love your stuff, but at this rate I don't think I'm ever going to see that Thunderhawk finished... :(

[Blackadder]

Funny you should mention that at this time because I just broke out the T'hawk for evaluation on how I will proceed. I suddenly have a hankering to work on the wings..............

[Blackadder]

No Chaos Turbo Laser

There is no Turbo laser for the FW Chaos Warhound so I have to make one. Not as easy as it may seem; there's a fine line between too little and too much distressing I hope I haven't exceeded it. Of course once its all a homogeneous colour it won't look as bad and I need so Chaos style icons to dress it up and of course the webbing between the components.

I'm starting the subsurface ligaments at the moment......

http://i.imgur.com/AyqXGWR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/AyqXGWRl.jpg

It's kind of fun ruining 60 buck worth of resin....

Not!

[Blackadder]

And So It Begins:

After a diligent search I have finally come up with a theme for my Chaos Warhound. Not surprisingly courtesy of my mentor in absentia,

Buypainted's Jaro.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcOtFcIGuXw

I'v been searching for the right green and metal motif and while it isn't a Warhound it is Chaos a vehicle scheme that should be easily adapted to the Warhound.

So first a coat of Flat Black Prime:

http://i.imgur.com/HAO7XGL.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HAO7XGLl.jpg

I use aerosol acetone/ toluene based primer instead of the acrylic water soluble primer for 1, it's compatible with both resin and acrylics and 2, it's a lot cheaper.

Note I did not try to cover completely with one coat; a couple of thin coats are better than one heavy coat which takes longer to dry and the thick paint obscures the fine detail.

[Blackadder]

Just a note to keep this thread updated.

On the 13th June I ordered the requisite material to paint and finish the 'Chaos Warhound' the actual assembly of which is relatively simple now that I have all the parts cleaned and inventoried. I would like to at least index the leg components so a variety of poses will be possible contingent on the durability of the material. I cannot hope for the flexibility of 'Lucie" of course but some alternate positioning should be possible given the availability of threaded hardware and rare earth magnets.

So whilst I am waiting for the paint perhaps I should demonstrate how I intend to articulate the model.

[Blackadder]

Blackadder Paints a Chaos Warhound:

Whilst I have the paints set up for the Warlord I might as well prep the Chaos Warhound for painting as well.

The model was first primed with generic Walmart $0.99 cents a can grey primer followed by Walmart $0.99 cents a can flat black.

http://i.imgur.com/OUSaVPo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OUSaVPol.jpg

Now I've applied AV Model Air German Grey thinned 50/50 with Isopropyl alcohol.

http://i.imgur.com/XIT8E7c.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XIT8E7cl.jpg

Since I don't have a Chaos army but I've always wanted to paint this model cadaverous green I figure I'll steal Jaro's paint scheme because....

1, It's the best I've seen.

and B, It's exactly the way I would have done it had I the artistic talent.

The trouble his Warhound looks like a Forgefiend.


http://i.imgur.com/Aq9fzUB.jpg

[Blackadder]

POS Warhound:

Bet I'll raise some hackles with that title :D

What I am attempting to say is I ought to have my head examined using a Warhound for practice as if it were worthless just so I can refine my technique when I tackle my Warlord.

http://i.imgur.com/xp7pfS6.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/xp7pfS6l.jpg

My reason being that painting a Chaos model you can hardly make a grievous mistake (within reason) and being resin the paint can be easily removed plus the airbrush applies paint so thinly that repainting doesn't appreciably obliterate detail. (again within reason)

So today after applying grey highlighting to the black base coat I started spraying on the main colour Vallejo AV Model Air Light Grey Green.

I used a 50/50 mix of paint to Isopropyl alcohol which is fabulous passing through my airbrush.

http://i.imgur.com/57i7yaA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/57i7yaAl.jpg

Following Jaro's example I am not concerned with total coverage because the stains and washes will take up the gaps. What I want my Chaos model to have is a mottled surface in accord with the decrepit look of the Chaos genera.

So While I learn I will be posting my successes and failures as a tutorial for those enjoy watching train wrecks...........

[Blackadder]

Sticking My Neck Out:

Blackadder is putting his neck on the block posting these images because I'm sure flagrant violations of good sense and technique abound in my painting.

http://i.imgur.com/DSdNf31.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/DSdNf31l.jpg

The first error has already been pointed out to me; I am painting the individual parts instead of the assembled model.

http://i.imgur.com/nfypNzG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nfypNzGl.jpg

Why this is a problem has not manifested itself to me yet but I am sure the awful truth will make itself evident summarily.

http://i.imgur.com/nVYPydQ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nVYPydQl.jpg

So anyone (and I am sure there are many that are saying, "He's headed for a fall.") that can offer a reasonable critique be advised, "Here's your chance."

Just an update; about 75% of the model has been coated with the main colour thus far.

[Christopher Valera]

Looks great so far. I wish GW made alternate carapaces, or carapaces that were clearly Nurgle/Khorne, etc so you could have multiple titans in your army, each with distinctly different carapaces, not carbon copies of each other.

--Chris
www.chrisvalera.com (http://www.chrisvalera.com)

[Blackadder]

What a splendid idea; so you're advocating FW sell the basic Chaos Warhound without armour, carapace as well as not packaging it with weapons and then offer these necessary items at greatly inflated prices as well. :D You have an assured future in GamesWorkshop marketing, send your resume there, Ha!

Forgive me I just couldn't resist........ ;)

Harder Than it Looks:

I've viewed with appetite others work with green stuff but have rarely had a necessity for working with it myself

Until today!

What I am attempting to do is convert a Mars Turbo Laser into a Chaos facsimile by distressing, gouging and generally effing up what heretofore was a pretty good casting by FW standards of the weapon that is not offered for Chaos Warhounds.

Well working with GreenStuff is harder than it looks not because the sculpting is actually hard but the stuff is extremely sticky. I made the mistake of letting it sit on my desk top and it adhered itself almost instantly! Now I have a stain on my writing desk.

It sticks with great avidity to my sculpting tools, my Xacto blades everything in fact except where I want to apply it where it perversely refuses to adhere.

Anyway after fighting with the stuff for what seems hours I managed to get it where I wanted in a reasonable fashion

http://i.imgur.com/zEJXGQ1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zEJXGQ1l.jpg

and let it sit for a while.

After what I thought was a judicious length of time I figure it was set enough to work the other side of the housing but no the stuff apparently needs a lot of curing time as although seemingly stable to the touch it is still quite malleable.

http://i.imgur.com/TgPAMyt.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/TgPAMytl.jpg

So a tip of my hat to GreenStuff sculptors, You earn my applause.

[Blackadder]

Magnets, Magnets, Magnets:

This thing is gonna be held together with magnets any place I can justify putting them (No innuendos please....)

It started with the waist to hip block where I have two 18 MM dia. by 3 MM thick Neodymium Magnets held in place with GreenStuff.

http://i.imgur.com/vRLoPOF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vRLoPOFl.jpg

The neck joint has two 12 MM dia by 3 MM to hold the head on.

http://i.imgur.com/lu2P1hX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/lu2P1hXl.jpg

The weapons will be interchangeable being 2 Plasma Cannons, a Megabolter and a Turbo Laser.

Naturally the carapace and head armour will be held on with magnets also the greaves, waist and thigh armour and the interior center bulkhead. That's about all for now until I get to the final assembly.

[Blackadder]

Vallejo Black Metal:

I had intended to use powdered Graphite (the stuff ya used to lubricate the axles of yer PineWood Derby racers) for my interior work but the Vallejo Model Air Black Metal 71.073 seems to do the job excellently.

The first image in flash was too intense

http://i.imgur.com/509Trup.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/509Trupl.jpg

So macro shots in natural light seems the way to go.

http://i.imgur.com/sHI3OwY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sHI3OwYl.jpg

Right now after my initial coat of black spray paint I highlighted the larger flat areas with Vallejo Model Air AV German Grey 71.052 followed by Vallejo Model Air AV Lt Grey Green 71.044 with my airbrush.

Just for brevity let's assume that all the paint mentioned below and from now on unless otherwise stipulated will be:

Vallejo Model Air AV paints, I'll just give the colour and the stock number.

http://i.imgur.com/MEzwe5z.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MEzwe5zl.jpg

This morning I dry-brushed 'Steel' 71.065 onto the still black areas and Black Metal onto the Lt Grey/Green 71.044 panels.

http://i.imgur.com/yY9oJku.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yY9oJkul.jpg

So far that's the only painting done to these pieces and I think the effect is passable.

http://i.imgur.com/2aVwUp1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2aVwUp1l.jpg

It's a shame to obfuscate the wealth of detail of this Chaos interior with gobs of paint as is seen on most of the images I've pulled up on 'google images' so I will be dry-brushing all the colours I apply to the interior just to highlight the detail.

http://i.imgur.com/leb7AVd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/leb7AVdl.jpg

I got a bit sloppy on the vent screen above; the brush was a tad too wet. Damn!

http://i.imgur.com/X4W5ZOb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/X4W5ZObl.jpg

The two servitors came out fine; How ever do they mould these intricate details!??????

[Blackadder]

The Interminable Interior:

I worked for two hours today dry-brushing various colours into the pieces. I had to learn how to apply rust as a highlight.

http://i.imgur.com/ZYmzLMj.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZYmzLMjl.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/jUhPYnm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jUhPYnml.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/Xfo881C.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Xfo881Cl.jpg

These ceiling pieces came out better than expected even in the camera shots AV Model Air Rust 71.069 did a good job in this area.

http://i.imgur.com/d147k3f.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/d147k3fl.jpg

The rust in this area is a big disappointment and has to be redone.

http://i.imgur.com/MDjPXca.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MDjPXcal.jpg

The servators still need bone white highlighting.

http://i.imgur.com/NUB52yl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/NUB52yll.jpg

This guy is my favorite, I have to leave the center bulkhead removable so he can be seen. This still needs AV Game Color Bone White 72.034 highlighting over Citadel Base Rakarth Flesh.

http://i.imgur.com/iwpmas8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/iwpmas8l.jpg

Perhaps tomorrow I'll be able to introduce a bit of colour to this drab interior.

[dwez]

From what I've read the secret to good Green Stuffing is lubrication. I think the recommended solutions is along the lines of Nivea Moisturiser, this guide in particular may be of interest (http://5-th-dimension.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/tyranid-ribcage-tutorial.html) for your Warhounds and your Nids. Personally I've still yet to enter the world of Green Stuff, relying on Milliput or air drying clay for my sculpting which can be smoothed with humble water.

[Blackadder]

From what I've read the secret to good Green Stuffing is lubrication. I think the recommended solutions is along the lines of Nivea Moisturiser, this guide in particular may be of interest (http://5-th-dimension.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/tyranid-ribcage-tutorial.html) for your Warhounds and your Nids. Personally I've still yet to enter the world of Green Stuff, relying on Milliput or air drying clay for my sculpting which can be smoothed with humble water.


Thanks for the great tutorial it will come in handy when I sculpt my Warlord-sized Norn Queen...

As for grease type lubricants I've since learned quite a bit from the input on various forums that water can help keeping the GS from sticking to the tools but still allow it to adhere to the model itself; something the grease will not allow it to do.

Now 'Nivea' is water soluble so it might not prevent adhesion the way grease does, I'll have to experiment with that. Ms. BA must have some of that gunk around in her arsenal of age-forestalling beauty products; Ha!

Thanks for the input.

[Blackadder]

Blackadder"s Subtifuge:

Sorry but it's just impossible to take a decent image of these interiors without a bit of photoshopping. The images without flash are too dark and out of focus and with a flash are too washed out so I employed my editor to give what I believe is the most colour true and accurate real life image I can manage.

directly below is the cockpit and while the ganglia and appendages are a tad washed out the overall image is a true as I can make them to real light and colour value.

http://i.imgur.com/JkVxGeU.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JkVxGeUl.jpg

This next image of the Tech Priest is the best of dozens of trial images which unfortunately does not display the the wealth of detail in this area. I acknowledge that the gold trim above the figure still needs quite a bit of work...........

http://i.imgur.com/cx0V8du.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cx0V8dul.jpg

Finally the poor dude on the back bulkhead has seen better days but at least the colour and darkness value is as true as my poor editor can produce.

http://i.imgur.com/UV7SEQR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/UV7SEQRl.jpg

Let me state for the record my son and I are at odds about the conduits attached to the appendages of the the crew of the vehicle.

He maintains that the connections are wire and I believe they represent ganglia so therefore his Warhound will be red and blue wires and my connections will be bone white as I believe look more like organic nerve ganglia.

I also opted to dry brush the web-like connective tissue Rakarth Flesh with bone white highlights whereas he has not addressed the problem as yet.

[Blackadder]

In Demigod We Rust:

The basic coat of rust is applied of which this is a fair sampling I'm using Vallejo AV Model Air Rust 71.080 50/50 paint to alcohol which seems a bit light for rust colour but once the black wash is on it will darken. While eventually the entire model will be getting a dusting of dry rust pigments I feel certain cancerous areas need this extra painting of corrosion in the deeper wounds.

Once all the painted rusting is in place I will try highlighting the subcutaneous ganglia etc, with Rakarth Flesh and Bone White.


http://i.imgur.com/aGSSHIB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/aGSSHIBl.jpg

Vallejo also makes a metallic rust but I don't like the sparkly look. Rust shouldn't sparkle.

http://i.imgur.com/HaG5CFI.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HaG5CFIl.jpg

[Blackadder]

Supricating Pustules:

Well google let me down; there is no such word as 'supricating' according to google so I guess I've spawned a neologism.

Supricate: to ooze a noxious amniotic fluid from an ulcer or cyst; Gagggg!

The abscesses are coming along nicely and I should be ready to begin assembly tomorrow. Virtually all the painting is done and I can apply the washes when the model is in one piece.

Here's a barrage of images that should be self-explanatory; I beg your pardon for the poor quality:

http://i.imgur.com/oZxzs2H.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oZxzs2Hl.jpg

I'm looking into purchasing a light box for photographing....

http://i.imgur.com/dQ9s7hb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dQ9s7hbl.jpg

Same picture different light source not much better but it's the sores we're interested in.

http://i.imgur.com/BIljbSV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/BIljbSVl.jpg

I'm rather pleases how the living tissue turned out it's even more repulsive than my Tyranids. Ha!

http://i.imgur.com/BahV1nK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/BahV1nKl.jpg

Once the washes are applied the wounds will take on a wetter appearance I'm hoping.

http://i.imgur.com/JmO5OsJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JmO5OsJl.jpg

The ganglia is Citadel 'Rakarth Flesh' highlighted with AV 'Bone White' all dry brushed on.

http://i.imgur.com/b4xFCBy.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/b4xFCByl.jpg

[Blackadder]

No One Move, I Dropped My Contact Lens:

I had to try this because the most obvious image that came to my mind was Peter Jackson's 'Eye of Sauron' for the waist shield orb.

Well all the colours are there but I think it needs to be a gif to make it come alive. I do have to shrink the highlight a bit.


http://i.imgur.com/MvmKHdFl.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/RzmtgcEl.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/BR9cNepl.jpg

It still needs a little more drybrushing.

And Eyewash............

[Blackadder]

A Running Pose:

So I begin the assembly of the legs. I have and idea for a dynamic pose where the two feet are pretty much in line as if the Titan was stalking in a running pose.

http://i.imgur.com/PJrQwSO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PJrQwSOl.jpg

I started by drilling tight holes for the toe bases so the bases can twist in their sockets as the foot was designed to do. I fact I was not aware of where I built the toes for Lucie many years ago.

http://i.imgur.com/CMIfrwp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CMIfrwpl.jpg

The trailing foot will be flexed with heel spur in the air and the front toes bent to their extreme flexed position.

http://i.imgur.com/pqqyIFc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/pqqyIFcl.jpg

I will be drilling and pinning the toe joins next.

[Blackadder]

The Dynamics of Stride:

In preparation for this 'on the fly' pose I am instituting a procedure heretofore unknown at least to me of allowing the feet and toes to be posed prior to assembly and gluing.

I drilled and pinned the toe joins so they can remain flexible until I have stabilized the quick striding stance; then this model will have when glued frozen in one pose.

http://i.imgur.com/U9JCbhC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/U9JCbhCl.jpg

I have in mind the T' Rex pursuit in 'Jurassic Park' where it is bearing down on the fleeing jeep feet and toes in tandem rather than the typical sprawled pose seen in most Warhound displays.

http://i.imgur.com/Jhg69ay.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Jhg69ayl.jpg

Naturally this pose will require some very fine tuning for balance considering the relative center of masses of a T' Rex vis–à–vis a Warhound the Warhound's center of gravity being so much higher than that of the Rex.

I'm not even sure such a pose is possible without resorting to a permanent pad affixed to the feet which will seriously detract from the visual effect of the model.

In studying the spore of Mesozoic Theropods the striding gait appears to be pigeon-toed at least in some instances see below. I probably won't be representing this unless necessary for balance which is probably why the dinosaur predator is intermittently adopting that foot placement. Almost every step a bipedal organism takes (including we humans) involves literally falling forward and using the step forward to catch and balance to keep us from falling on our face.

The second problem is the lack of the counterbalancing tail that the T' Rex enjoyed but not so with the Warhound. Some lead or gold in the rear void generators may be in order to compensate for the front heaviness of the pose.

I have an idea for placement of these that may add to balancing the overall model side to side as well.

In all the procedure should prove an interesting tour de force.

http://0.tqn.com/d/dinosaurs/1/S/_/P/-/-/dinofootprintWC10.jpg

Note the cigarette butt in the footprint immediately above this sentence; proof that mentally challenged humanoids and dinosaurs co-existed?

[Packe]

Now this got me interested, especially on the pose.

I hope you succeed without a pad.

And if you are going to use gold this is probably going to be the most expensive Warhound, which would be awesome. :D

Looking forward to pose examples.

[Blackadder]

Gold is not an option unfortunately but a denser non-radioactive element than lead would be a blessing. Of those I believe gold would be the cheapest.

Meanwhile:

Unhappy Household Hints from The Blackadder

To keep harmony in the household I suggest you purchase this item instead of stealing it from your spouse's utensil drawer.

If a cheap nonstainless melon baller is in the drawer I suggest you dazzle your wife with an upscale stainless baller. Makes a nice b'day gift.

http://i.imgur.com/cC0M9Cd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cC0M9Cdl.jpg

Here we see an inexpensive chrome plated baller about a buck fifty mind you the cheaper the better as we want mild steel.

Note the 1 inch cup fits the neck gimbal perfectly and is plenty strong enough to support the head.

http://i.imgur.com/xL9P2rk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/xL9P2rkl.jpg


A couple of seconds with a hack saw and a file and the deed is done.

http://i.imgur.com/Et0zWGA.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Et0zWGAl.jpg

Install the cup between the two magnets used for the head attachment

http://i.imgur.com/20UesYU.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/20UesYUl.jpg


You may have to sand paper the cup to rough up the surface but you can readily see the range of motion afforded by this mechanism.

(Note the conduit collar was left off for clarity in these images.)


http://i.imgur.com/Obi7p0Zl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CqCgKC5l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VSny3nvl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Jk2DCxzl.jpg

I wanted the ability for the head to look down as it is pertinent to the pose I have in mind.

[Blackadder]

More thoughts on.......

Ambulatory Dynamics:

Okay I've pretty much decided on the stance which will be similar to the image below except the trailing foot (The right foot Blue arrow ) will have the toes in contact with the ground.

http://i.imgur.com/GEqVh14.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GEqVh14l.jpg

The hips will be canted in towards the centerline ( Red arrows) and the ankles will be slightly twisted in ( Green arrow ) so the width of the gait will be quite narrow instead of the way most Warhounds are displayed.

Most of the weight of the model will be centered above the left foot which will be fully in contact with the ground ( Left Blue arrow )

The overall motion representation will be similar to the image below:

http://i.imgur.com/adxZppV.jpg

although the feet will be positioned in this manner:

http://i.imgur.com/p0eGm59.jpg

From the side the stance will resemble this:

http://i.imgur.com/91RtAN2.jpg

Excepting it will be a Chaos Warhound of course.

[defiantworkshop]

This is some absolute insanity. Decided to check myself in to a psych ward b/c this is crazy.

[Levaticus]

The lengths you go to are amazing.

[Blackadder]

The Puppet Master:

Or The Chicken Dance:

I can't decide what to title this entry. To get the proper pose and hopefully balance I temporarily articulated the entire model. It came out so well I may just display it with the waist support rod and call it done but naturally not in the "Legs fully extended" as it is right now.

http://i.imgur.com/dt1Dqm9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dt1Dqm9l.jpg

It needs to hunker down for a more menacing appearance but I thought it would be amusing to see it in the initial pose stage.

It's Déjà vu all over again articulating one of these constructs as 'Lucie' went through the same evolutions when she was built. Of course Lucie took me two years instead of a couple days to reach this point There's a lot to be said for not scratchbuilding.

My big concern is the hip joints as they are opposite the normal Warhound stance and I wanted to see if they appeared comical flexed down as they are.

http://i.imgur.com/Ba5e1tD.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Ba5e1tDl.jpg

[Packe]

Nice pose, lok unusual, but I think it works.


And about the counter weight, have you thought about Tungsten? It's heavier than lead and should be cheaper than gold. :P

[Blackadder]

A Problem of Commitment:

Part of the reason I go to such lengths to mechanize my model is I do have a problem with commitment.

There for the Rare Earth magnets are right up my alley.

The accompanying photos show how I have circumvented my phobia to the extreme by actually attaching the heavy void generators to the hull using four really strong magnets which give the added benefit on complete interior access should the need arise.


http://i.imgur.com/73zeVVZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/73zeVVZl.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/A5B8ueW.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/A5B8ueWl.jpg

Once the resin dries I'll be able to assemble the model and disassemble it at my whim.

And that's a good thing right?

[Blackadder]

A Monopoly?

"We don't care; we don't have to We're a Monopoly." The GW/FW motto?

My son informed me of a problem he is having with his Chaos Warhound. The material is too shiny to hold paint.

Now don't say it has to be cleaned and the mold release medium has to be cleaned off. No there is not a trace of oil or residue on any of the parts but paint, prime acrylic or toluene based does not adhere. I've tried all the tricks I know including applying a dull spray on finish prior to applying primer and nothing ''NOTHING!'' sticks. I even washed a few pieces in the dishwasher, NOT RECOMMENDED!!!!!

Well if anyone has had this problem with Forge World Resin I have a solution but first I would like to hear from anyone else who has this problem and how they resolved it.

[Blackadder]

Resin Resilience:

Thanks to all those who have offered suggestions regarding paint adherence but I have tried every one suggested and a few not suggested e.g. muriatic acid, nothing worked. For those that suggested sending back to FW after two years I doubt I could even find the receipt. Getting replacement parts from FW is like pulling teeth what it would be like replacing 90% of a model I couldn't hazard a guess but I suspect it would be nigh impossible.

Fortunately I do have a large compressor and a 60 dollar sandblasting kit from Sears' 'Craftsman' and a bag of 'play' sand were all that were needed to resolve the dilemma. I hope.

Sandblasting lightly imparts a dull finish to the large flat surfaces and the small particles get into the fine crevasses sufficiently to give a passable adhesion surface.

Once I get a few pieces done I'll supply an update on the progress and the efficacy of the fix.

Again thanks for all the responses.

[Blackadder]

Shiny FW Crap:

Well the cold weather is finally here so I can apply myself to correcting odious casting mistakes from ForgeWorld. It was much too warm for someone of my metabolism to attempt to sandblast over the Summer working up a sweat whilst covered with sandblasting gear is not my idea of a good time. So this week I set up my sandblasting equipment in the spare bath, opened the windows donned mask and breather, long sleeve turtleneck, gloves and skullcap and hunkered down for the duration. Virtually every large piece of my son's FW Chaos Warhound was so shiny with resin that the paint would not adhere.

I hit upon the idea of sandblasting the surface shine to a dull matte finish in hopes of making the surface conducive to holding pigment.

Allow me to caution purchasers of FW resin products. Inspect the pieces you receive and if they are slickly shiny return and or apply to FW for replacements (Good Luck With That!) because unless you have 300 bucks worth of sandblasting equipment and the patience of Job you have been duly screwed by Forge World.

How any company that charges exorbitant prices for resin models can have such poor quality control beggars credulity. I purchased this model a couple of years ago as a Xmas present for my son, this summer he decided to start painting and found no primer or spray paint would adhere to the castings no matter how much washing with detergent, spirits, soaps, acids whatever would leave a surface amenable to paint. Finally sandblasting was the only option left.

Do yourself a favor and inspect your items as soon a received and notify FW of the Cr-p immediately.

[Blackadder]

Prognosis Positive:

Well sandblasting did the trick but it is indeed disappointing that such extreme measures have to be exercised on a model costing close to $600 BUCKS! Were I not in the possession of a basic sandblaster and compressor I would have been thoroughly shagged and I know of many who having purchased expensive FW models who have put off rushing into building them for years after purchase until building skills improve.

Now to be fair I did not contact FW for replacement parts, I don't know what the time limit on their responsibility would be but I am sure it doesn't extend to over two years. I have a feeling that they would not be amenable to replacing over half the components anyway so 'caveat emptor' prevailed and I relied on impromptu modeling abilities to remedy this situation.

Thanks to all who made suggestions on remedying this and now as I apply the first coat of primer (make that REapply the first coat of primer) I make a mental note of how not to be put in this situation in the future.

[Blackadder]

More thoughts on.......

Ambulatory Dynamics:

Okay I've pretty much decided on the stance which will be similar to the image below except the trailing foot (The right foot Blue arrow ) will have the toes in contact with the ground.

http://i.imgur.com/GEqVh14.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GEqVh14l.jpg

The hips will be canted in towards the centerline ( Red arrows) and the ankles will be slightly twisted in ( Green arrow ) so the width of the gait will be quite narrow instead of the way most Warhounds are displayed.

Most of the weight of the model will be centered above the left foot which will be fully in contact with the ground ( Left Blue arrow )

The overall motion representation will be similar to the image below:

http://i.imgur.com/adxZppVl.jpg

although the feet will be positioned in this manner:

http://i.imgur.com/p0eGm59l.jpg

From the side the stance will resemble this:

http://i.imgur.com/91RtAN2l.jpg

Excepting it will be a Chaos Warhound of course.

Ha!

Who said "Life imitates art" or rather more to the point in this case science imitates your's truly; The Blackadder. I found this video related to the dynamics of bipedal dinosaurs walking that has completely usurped my ideas.

X-Rays of Birds Making Footprints Reveal Dinosaurs’ Walk | Video (http://www.livescience.com/49043-x-rays-of-birds-making-footprints-reveal-dinosaurs-walk-video.html)

Well you saw it here first is my self salving consolation.

[Blackadder]

Fabrica Redux:

Now that that little item of paint adherence has been allayed we can resume the fabrication of the model's joining surfaces.

http://i.imgur.com/oEdab3c.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oEdab3cl.jpg

I'm going to use magnets again to attach the various major components since it worked so well with the other Chaos Warhound built previously on this thread.


I try to document the steps better this time because I know now that the process will work whereas before I was trodding unknown territory.

[Blackadder]

Magnets Instead of Pins:

As you may well know the Blackadder is never satisfied with his work so he has to make allowances for his mania by assembling his models so they can be made better at some future date.

And so discovered Rare Earth Magnets which are tailor made to accommodate his compulsive disorder.

The below image shows the pencil marks and scale used to precisely position the magnets on the after hull component to the Void Generator housings.

I used the rear hull angles to demarcate where I would position the center of the magnet and for convenience the width of the scale for the second center coordinate.

After drilling and gluing in the hull magnets I positioned the rear hull on the Generator housing and traced the rear hull angles onto the housing(s).

Then using my scale again (See image foreground housing) and allowing for pencil point width I marked the housing magnet center position.

http://i.imgur.com/cVnnWzf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cVnnWzfl.jpg

I then center cut a tiny pin hole with my #11 xacto tip (foreground housing) and drilled a pilot hole as in the housing upper left in the image below.

http://i.imgur.com/xy3uqao.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/xy3uqaol.jpg

It's important to be extremely precise in the placement of the magnets because the magnets are self centering with each other and if they are off the fit of the components will be loose when the model is assembled.

It's also important to make sure the magnets are flush with the surrounding surfaces and not tilted in their sockets I'll show how I do that in the next installment..........

http://i.imgur.com/hKXwO63.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hKXwO63l.jpg

Note if you will that in spite of the manhandling of the components the paint is firmly staying in place; Whew! at least that problem was solved....

[Blackadder]

Insidious ForgeWorld:

These models are not for the beginner. I noticed this on the first model as well; there is a small aligning block moulded into the lower corner of the Generator housing (indicated by the arrow I scratched in the paint on the left housing.

This small block is supposed to help align the housing with the aft hull component. Well it's in the wrong place or it's just too big and has to be trimmed down or the housings will not seat squarely on the hull floor or the back wall depending how you glue the parts together so conceivably you can have one generator angled up and one down and not notice it until you try to install the carapace and whoops it won't fit!

or it rocks!

http://i.imgur.com/C4PLSqg.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/C4PLSqgl.jpg

So either cut the block off or trim it down so the generators fit evenly and at the same angle.

I'll show you what I mean once my epoxy dries.............

[Blackadder]

Insidious ForgeWorld Part Two:

Now that the glue is dry I can demonstrate what I meant in the above post:

For the point of illustration let's pretend the Generator housing is not held on with magnets but instead you are trying to affix it to the hull with glue. In the image below I have purposely put the housing as it would appear were the corner block NOT trimmed down. Note the gap under the side wall utility box that should be resting on the hull floor. If you rock the housing forward so the box rests on the floor then the box in the upper corner separates from the back wall. You can have one or the other but not both because that moulded in block is positioned wrong.

http://i.imgur.com/mzvLCrJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/mzvLCrJl.jpg

So after you trim or remove the block both utility boxes contact the hull floor and back wall as they were intended and the housing is installed correctly i.e. as the FW designer had intended.

The proof of this is shown below where the completed housing assembly seen from beneath shows the bases of the hull and both housings are flush with each other behind the waist pivot well.

http://i.imgur.com/05lxjRi.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/05lxjRil.jpg

A minor discrepancy but I'll bet there are Warhounds assembled with those gaps apparent all because of a lack of FW quality control; I mean cleaning flash and vents and flattening mating surfaces I can understand but redesigning castings should not be required on a $600 dollar model for crissake!

[Blackadder]

The Best of All Possible Worlds:

So in my above rants I pointed out quality control issues in FW castings but in truth these are beautifully designed and executed models, a bit pricey but then; It's only money and what else would you do with it;

Give it to the Government?

The "best of all Worlds" title of this piece refers to the employment of magnets rather than glue to hold your Wahound together. The beauty of this is it allows you to view the wealth of internal detail in this model and also allows detailed interior painting after the model is assembled or in the case described above repair/alterations of mistakes made in the callowness of youthful exuberance i.e. "I gotta get this built for the big tournament this weekend."

Anyway below is the full hull/housing/carapace assembly in one piece; stable yet held together only with magnets.

http://i.imgur.com/tD7cFfN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tD7cFfNl.jpg

First removing the carapace, almost everyone today employs magnets to affix the carapace to the hull so that's no biggy............

http://i.imgur.com/yDMe4bR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yDMe4bRl.jpg

Note; the center bulkhead has not been installed properly as I want that removable for painting and subsequent interior view when the model is completed (Blackadder, do you ever complete a model?)

In the image below, shows the twin Generator housings held on only with magnets granting easy access to the aft bulkhead and hull.

http://i.imgur.com/fcppojM.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fcppojMl.jpg

(Yeah I know the gap is under the right utility box in this image because I was using this photo for the demo 'reply'.)

Finally the hull completely disassembled and can be reassembled with equal facility thanks to the super strong properties of the rare earth magnets.

http://i.imgur.com/JxS1UkE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JxS1UkEl.jpg

Next; Pinning the front to rear hull sections..............

[Blackadder]

A Bee Without a Sting

Of course it's all well and good to advocate using magnets but unless the procedure is defined it's just so much verbal flatus. Not being a politician I'll attempt to back up my proposal with a procedural method.

First of all you're going to need some sort of drill. Now here in the USA you can get a decent 1/2 inch variable speed drill for about $20 bucks. If you can afford a $600 dollar model surely you can afford an electric drill. I believe a man without tools is like a bee without a sting (Hence the Title :D). Next you're going to need a set of drill bits. These are also pretty cheap because we're not drilling sheet metal here we're drilling plastic so now you're out maybe $30 bucks but the tools are reusable and with care will probably last a lifetime.

Next you will need rare earth magnets. I buy mine on ebay or locally at Home Depot or Lowes, Where they can be obtained in Europe & Etc I cannot say but I'm sure they can be sourced on the Internet.

For glue I use 5 or 7 minute epoxy also available at Home Depot &Etc.

To mount the Generator housings I used 12 MM X 3 MM disc shaped magnets one in each housing and one in each side of the aft hull component. Now it's important to observe the polarity of the magnets because if you get it wrong the part will shoot across the workbench instead of locking in place; I mark my polarity with a felt marker so I can tell at a glance which side is which. Call me a nitpicker but I keep the north/south polarity consistent across the two generators and the hull so the magnets are not repelling each other over the millenia.

Okay so now we're ready to drill the hole to receive the magnet; drill the hole with a bit just slightly larger than the size of the magnet. Now here in the US that's 31/64ths inch but a 1/2 inch will do. In the rest of the World that's about 12,5 MM or 13 MM if you have a cheap drill set. You can get away with drill the hole 3 MM deep ideally but not less as you don't want the magnet to protrude above the surface of the resin. So mix enough resin to coat the sides of the hole and fill the bottem of the cup and install the magnet making sure to observe the polarity remember. Now we want the magnet to be even with the surface of the surrounding surface and also to be dead on level i.e.not tilted so wipe off the excess epoxy and take a thin piece of steel or a fender washer and cover the magnet; don't worry about the washer getting glued to the piece, we'll address that later after the epoxy dries.

[Dlatrex]

Ha!

Who said "Life imitates art" or rather more to the point in this case science imitates your's truly; The Blackadder. I found this video related to the dynamics of bipedal dinosaurs walking that has completely usurped my ideas.

X-Rays of Birds Making Footprints Reveal Dinosaurs’ Walk | Video (http://www.livescience.com/49043-x-rays-of-birds-making-footprints-reveal-dinosaurs-walk-video.html)

Well you saw it here first is my self salving consolation.

Hah! You can count on the RVC to come to the rescue of vertebrate paleontologists ;-)

Does this new data chance your mind on your original posturing? I do not see a great deal wrong with your example pose; the COG is probably too far forward, but assuming the machine was in motion, that should not be a problem...

[Blackadder]

Thanks for the reply belatedly I'll admit.........:blush:

Together Again:

After an eight month hiatus I'm ready to resume this build starting with the fully articulated feet and legs.

http://i.imgur.com/7kmJkny.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/7kmJknyl.jpg

[Blackadder]

Blackadder Poses a Chaos Warhound



After sitting in the box for the better part of a year I've final gotten around to posing my Chaos Warhound.



In this preliminary pose (Nothing is glued yet; all the pieces are pinned together) I am trying to get the feet positions and the stance correct.



http://i.imgur.com/jNPMmzz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/jNPMmzzl.jpg



I've mentioned this before but to my mind the ambulation of the FW Titans is totally in error (My own Warlord included). Thrusting one foot forward without bringing it inward to the centerline in front of the trailing foot is physically impossible in a walking gait. Lifting a foot off the ground without shifting the weight to the trailing foot would cause the entire titan to topple to the side of the lifted foot. Further more to move forward the body must actually shift the CG (center of gravity) forward over the lead foot causing the lifted foot to swing and catch the body from falling forward on it's mug; every step we take has all these elements and we do it all subconsciously our brains making the subtle corrections for such as variations of terrain, wind, and surface conditions. Walking is tough!



ForgeWorld has titans waddling as a toddler would walk with the inverted pendulum perambulation; the torso shifting side to side with each step as a baby learning to walk. A squad of Reavers crossing a battlefield in this manner would look laughable.



My intent is to bring a bit of dignity to these monsters and I start with this, the Warhound Titan.

[Blackadder]

The Pose I Am Looking For:

This is pretty much the pose I am looking for granting nothing is glued together and the whole figure is suspended on a piece of wire coat hanger.

http://i.imgur.com/zPaWmIR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zPaWmIRl.jpg

It seems to have just the right degree of menace....

http://i.imgur.com/vttWvKF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vttWvKFl.jpg

The side view shows just a tad too much forward leaning but that will be corrected once the toes are secured.

http://i.imgur.com/jz6sUrG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jz6sUrGl.jpg

Note the Turbolaser right armament; that's a modified Mars turbolaser....

http://i.imgur.com/APL9dtO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/APL9dtOl.jpg

The rear view shows the dynamics of the pose.

http://i.imgur.com/rvAsIGd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rvAsIGdl.jpg

Everything you see here is held together with pins and magnets so once glued the forward tilt will be less extreme.

[Morgrim]

The tilt and sway you've put into the pose looks really good. Agreed on the menacing nature. The top section (chest?) does look tilted a little too far forward, but you mentioned that'll be adjusted later.

[Blackadder]

The tilt and sway you've put into the pose looks really good. Agreed on the menacing nature. The top section (chest?) does look tilted a little too far forward, but you mentioned that'll be adjusted later.

Although the coat hanger rod is almost 3,0 MM in diameter it still bends under the mass of the model; these things are d*mned heavy. I plan to glue the feet and legs today and forgo articulation variables except for the magnetically mounted parts.

[Blackadder]

This Pose Is Working:

Trust me; after hours of tweaking the legs feet and toes I finally bit the bullet and super glued the toes and lower legs together for all time. And it appeares somewhat satisfactory.

http://i.imgur.com/k8E5tBR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/k8E5tBRl.jpg

Instead of shortening the balance rod I raised the cork surface about 3/8 ths inch to get the desired bend to the knee and ankle.

http://i.imgur.com/GVbMiEn.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GVbMiEnl.jpg

I have to admit there is a certain malevolence to the pose even in this stripped down stage. Yeah this is how a Chaos Warhound should look Heh! Heh! Heh!

[Kirsten]

looking fantastic

[Morgrim]

It looks like it's stalking up on prey and will then proceed to eat it.

That is very fitting for a chaos titan.

[Blackadder]

Eat it! Oh that's very good: May I use that in some of my replies?

Meanwhile.....

Horrors:

Oh the horror I have three Warhound kits and all three are missing the same vital pieces;

http://i.imgur.com/SnYm0TC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SnYm0TCl.jpg

both the pistons behind the knee.

http://i.imgur.com/1TL4buq.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1TL4buql.jpg

None of the pistons are of sufficient diameter to fit the cylinder properly.

http://i.imgur.com/qdykNbx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/qdykNbxl.jpg

There are two unaccounted for pistons but they are about a millimeter too small in diameter so I am making some from scratch, at least for this Warhound.

http://i.imgur.com/dKTfLsf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dKTfLsfl.jpg

Once I see where the unaccounted for pistons go I may make an adjustment but for now I need finish assembling the left leg as once assembled there will be no way to install that part.

http://i.imgur.com/vDhpsnG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vDhpsnGl.jpg

And here we have the missing piston installed; note the difference between this and the first image.......

http://i.imgur.com/SnYm0TC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SnYm0TCl.jpg

I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.... Ha! :D

Anyone with a finished Warhound; did you have the same problem; if so give me a reply.

[Morgrim]

Eat it! Oh that's very good: May I use that in some of my replies?
Of course you may!

[Blackadder]

Dude Her's Royt To Me

Damnation she stands unaided without me even having to add junk to her trunk. so she can be played as a piece without gluing pads to her feet...

http://i.imgur.com/RqEXwR9.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/RqEXwR9l.jpg

I may add a couple of ounces of lead to the void generators because she still leans forward a tad too much but Hell, she stands!!!

http://i.imgur.com/QZYRAx0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QZYRAx0l.jpg

Now I can start detailing the paint and a whole slew of ideas to pretty her up...

http://i.imgur.com/V1Gnz3k.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/V1Gnz3kl.jpg

And I thought it couldn't be done; Ha!

http://i.imgur.com/KV1o2yd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KV1o2ydl.jpg

Yeah she definitly needs some weight in the back....

http://i.imgur.com/HsjlIfp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HsjlIfpl.jpg

[Blackadder]

Head Rotation Part 1:

Because why be satisfied with just one position.....

I tried this on my scratch built Warhound and it was quite an involved piece of work; much too labor intense......
http://i.imgur.com/1Eey09v.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1Eey09vl.jpg

So here a simple and elegant way to achieve the same effect.

First get the old melon baller out of the utensil drawer (Who balls melons anymore anyway?) You can also pick them up cheap at the dollar store but make sure they're magnetic, (good) stainless steel won't work.

http://i.imgur.com/iC8cfMD.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/iC8cfMDl.jpg

Next cut the bowl (cup) from the baller and sand the rough cut and surface of the cup.

http://i.imgur.com/E5PSgF8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/E5PSgF8l.jpg

And that's about it.....

http://i.imgur.com/393BwIW.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/393BwIWl.jpg

Next, the result of the effort......

BTW I forgot to mention you need to have installed rare earth magnets on both the head and neck to make this work......

[Blackadder]

The Result:

So my little experiment has paid off and now my Warhound has a simple yet effective articulated head capable of positioning virtually anywhere within the confines of the neck area as befitting a model of this caliber..........

Looking down:

http://i.imgur.com/5gnyH5d.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5gnyH5dl.jpg

Midway position:

http://i.imgur.com/N6tc7ZS.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/N6tc7ZSl.jpg

Fully elevated position:

http://i.imgur.com/cyatRLx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cyatRLxl.jpg

Looking right (pardon the chopped image)

http://i.imgur.com/gfW2VaP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/gfW2VaPl.jpg

And looking left............

http://i.imgur.com/tJwHEgh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tJwHEghl.jpg

Just a little fun project to keep you from getting too bored whilst building one of these precast models.

[Deacon Ix]

Going to have to try the melon baller technique myself...

[Blackadder]

"There are some days when I think I'm going to die from an overdose of satisfaction."
~Salvador Dali

Well I don't know what his satisfaction stems from, flaccid clocks or the world's most ridiculous mustache but I can understand the gist of his statement.

Today my Chaos Warhound stands 95% complete with all pertinent parts installed and ready for final painting. I regret I couldn't make the legs movable but the mass of this model prevented such niceties so I have to be satisfied with neck, waist and weapons being able to be posed but the legs are permanently glue into the pose you see here.

http://i.imgur.com/zWMivuU.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zWMivuUl.jpg

I had hopes to open my paint booth this weekend but Winter still has it's icy grip on the the northeast US so no painting as of this date.

http://i.imgur.com/smafIPh.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/smafIPhl.jpg

So instead a brief show of the dexterity of the neck joint, would that I could have the time to animate this but you'll get the idea.


http://i.imgur.com/as1pnlT.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/as1pnlTl.jpg

And in the final image the Space Marine is toast.

http://i.imgur.com/j2F3qkE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/j2F3qkEl.jpg

Martini time; Skoal.

[Blackadder]

I Don't Do Windows:

If you're anything like me you dread doing windows. They're always messy and smudged with glue and always popping out and looking like a genuine bollixed up abomination. I got incredibly lucky on my Warlord but that was just that; LUCK.

So here's something I discovered last night that may take the pain out of glazing...

It seems the two products shown below are extremely compatible; the Loctite Ultra fast drying glue makes the Staples Index Tabs just the right degree of tackyness to adhere to the resin and softens the edges to conform to the window frames.

http://i.imgur.com/FVuyiC1.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FVuyiC1l.jpg

The two pieces joined (Just above the knife in the image below) were my test pieces and I just put a drop of glue and pressed the two pieces together momentarily and they held plus the glue did not cloud or bubble. Capillary action is very good with these products as well.

http://i.imgur.com/SaJ6Jxp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SaJ6Jxpl.jpg

So with this result....

http://i.imgur.com/HjfDMzZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HjfDMzZl.jpg

I'll leave you and attempt to install the other window with equal success I hope.

[Blackadder]

The Saga Continues, or The Blackadder Has Too Much Time On His Hands.............

With my new Mini Ipad and some luck I am bringing to the table first hand images of my second FW Chaos Warhound. Since I've already established the pose and this one will somewhat mirror the previous pose shown above, I know how to set the feet for a reasonably accurate stance so my main concern is a proper base setting for display. In this one I shall be going for a barren lava bed with a melted Ryza turret and gun in the foreground ( In reality a failed casting of a Vanquisher turret and cannon I made years ago and which has been kicking around in the Russ bitz box ad nauseum) The terrain is some old 'Sculpey bakeable clay' I found in the garage and painted with a few passes from some old cans of Krylon spray primer spray; Flat Black, Gray Primer, Rust Primer, and EMD Carton spray paint that is used to blot out shipping labels.........

http://i.imgur.com/tTXhOBW.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tTXhOBWl.jpg