Opinions on super glue activators and best one to buy in UK?

[RGilbert26]

Afternoon all, I've just been told by a friend that there exists super glue activators which make gluing metal, finecast and resin models together easier.

I'm looking for people to comment on what they think of them from their personal experience and which one's would be best for use with Forge World models?

My friend recommended Army Painter's version, so if someone could give an opinion or suggest something else that would be great.

Thanks.

[phoenix01]

My recommendation: baking soda mixed in water. Or just the water. Less harmful than the packaged accelerators out there and works just as well.

Cyranoacrylate (superglue) has an inhibitor in the form of a weak acid added to the mixture that slows curing. A weak base like baking soda neutralizes the acid allowing faster curing. Water accelerates by increasing the reactions of the hardener in the glue. It's also why superglue bonds to human skin so well: the water in your skin cells gets leached out.

[RGilbert26]

In other words lick or wet one half, stick the other and put the two together?

[SaveModifier]

Activators and such will also weaken the bond you make, if you're just glueing light as anything resin bits, thats fine, but anything heavier and the bond might not be strong enough

[DWest]

From my experience, the best "activator" is actually an emery board. Yes, one of the cheap, nasty, wannabe files typically used for fingernails. Superglue works by seeping into the pores in whatever surfaces are being bonded and then solidifying, so the rougher and more porous the surfaces, the harder the bond. A quick scuff of both surfaces to be joined and you get an extremely strong bond.

[phoenix01]

Activators and such will also weaken the bond you make, if you're just glueing light as anything resin bits, thats fine, but anything heavier and the bond might not be strong enough

And when dealing with superglue, less is more. It cures from the outside edges in, and a big blob may have uncured superglue in the center for a long time as it is isolated from the water vapor in the air. Uncured superglue makes for a bad bond. Also, if you live in a dry environment, superglue will take longer to cure (again the water vapor in the air).

[phoenix01]

In other words lick or wet one half, stick the other and put the two together?

You don't want it dripping as you might wash away superglue, but a drop of water for a small bond (an arm to a torso for a normal size miniature) or dipping the piece in water will accelerate the process. Or work with a good humidifier in the room.

[Phototoxin]

From my experience, the best "activator" is actually an emery board. Yes, one of the cheap, nasty, wannabe files typically used for fingernails. Superglue works by seeping into the pores in whatever surfaces are being bonded and then solidifying, so the rougher and more porous the surfaces, the harder the bond. A quick scuff of both surfaces to be joined and you get an extremely strong bond.

It increases surface area essentially, no?

I find that if I breathe out on it it helps the glue get tackier a little quicker, but generally natural curing time is the best.

[Cpt Codpiece]

CA cures in absence of O2, good old oxygen.

a can of CO2 keyboard cleaner once bond has started to take will cure CA quick, but be careful not o freeze via spray as that weakens the glue.