The Hag - Eldar character for my campaign

[YorkNecromancer]

I've been working on trying to have models for every character in my blog campaign. Here's one from the post I will be uploading this Sunday. Holwing Banshee in her formative years, became a Farseer, then circumstances caused her to flee the Eldar entirely. She's since worked with Rogue Traders, and is currently an agent of the campaign's Dark Eldar faction.

In regular 40K games, she's just a Succubus with power sword and blast pistol.

And yes, that is an Imperial Purity Seal she's wearing. Yes, it's there deliberately.

Pre paint:

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb183/MaltonNecromancer/Summer%20Holiday%202013/2013-08-07150859_zps341221c2.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb183/MaltonNecromancer/Summer%20Holiday%202013/2013-08-07150846_zpsd3d619b8.jpg

Post paint:

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb183/MaltonNecromancer/Summer%20Holiday%202013/2013-08-09024014_zps94180107.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb183/MaltonNecromancer/Summer%20Holiday%202013/2013-08-09024059_zpsc702b6f2.jpg

[ElectricPaladin]

WHY ARE YOU SO AWESOME? STOP BEING AWESOME. STOP IT. STOP!

Actually, don't. Keep going. I mean, dat sculpt. Dat paintjob. Dat... everything.

I have to ask: what was your process for getting the cloak thing right? I know all about using gravity and half-cured greenstuff to make cloakes and capes, but I've never seen anyone combine that with a textured bit, the way you have. How did that happen?

[YorkNecromancer]

I have to ask: what was your process for getting the cloak thing right? I know all about using gravity and half-cured greenstuff to make cloakes and capes, but I've never seen anyone combine that with a textured bit, the way you have. How did that happen?

Right, that cloak was a bit of an experiment. Normally I make cloaks out of milliput rather than GS. This is because Milliput can be easily, easily carved into the shape required once it's cured, and you can get some beautiful fine details.

On this model, what looks like one sculpted cloak is actually two sculpted pieces - the cloak, and the rune armour.

The cloak here was actually a ten minute bodged job. I was mostly experimenting with mixing Milliput and GS to see what happens. This is because I don't like how 'rubbery' GS tends to be when cured in a thin sheet. It's a 50:50 mix of Milliput and GS, which meant it gained the smooth integrity of GS, but was also possible to carve as well.

The way I make 'flowing' robes from GS is to firstly make a flat sheet of GS. I then cut it into what I think the rough shape of the cloak will be. I lightly apply it to the model, and see if I'm right, taking it away and trimming the edges down until I've got something I'm happy with.

Once I've got the right shape, I apply the GS firmly to the main area that it's going to be held on to (the waist), pressing down until it sticks. I then build up an additional layer of GS over this if necessary to keep it fixed. Once it's firmly stuck to the model, I make sure I've smoothed away all fingerprints, then literally twist it into shape. If you assume the corners of the cloth are where you pull from to get that 'flow' look, it's easy. Creating folds where the fabric sort of doubles back on itself are useful for creating a supportive structure, and you should be pretty firm with your pulls; not enough to pull it free, but certainly enough to pull it off.

Once I have a shape I am am happy with, I usually position the model in such a way that gravity will pull down on the structure's longest line, rather than letting the model simply stand on its base. That way, the GS falls more slowly, hopefully so slowly it's become solid before its had a chance to set.

Its also useful to let your GS 'age' a little too; fresh out of the packet and it's very soft and sticky. About six months of exposure to air, and it becomes a lot firmer. Put it in an airtight container after that though, as you don't want it going rock solid.

Once the 'skirt' section has set, I then did the rune armour detail. If you build a model up in layers, waiting for each layer to cure rather than building upon it when its wet, it really is very easy. :)