Army painter quick shade

[Dave Fothergill]

I've recently got some quick shade to speed up army painting and wanted to know the opinion of anyone who had used it before. I'm doing a few tester models (pictures to follow) and find that it's quite thick and leaves a thick coat on the model after "dipping" it is this normal ?

[templarboy]

It is a bit thick. You need to shake the can up for a long time and shake the extra off the model after you dip it. I prefer to brush it on. I have more control that way.

[magickbk]

There was a recent discussion about Quickshade in relation to Lizardmen. http://www.lounge.belloflostsouls.net/showthread.php?34643-Lizardmen-What-Have-I-Missed/page3

Deadlift posted an example, and could probably speak more about consistency and so forth.

[Dave Fothergill]

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This was dipped in

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This was brushed on

[Bigred]

I did an entire ork army and about 50 plaguebearers with dipping. I also found that too much of the "dip" stayed on the models.

Here's my trick:

1) glue all your models (very securely) to be dipped to cheap wood golf tees (you can buy hundreds for nothing) I just superglued the golf tee head to the underside of the round base.
2) grab a small trash can you dont care about
3) when each model is ready for the dip lock the pointy end of the golf tee into an electric drill
4) quickly "dip" the model
5) invert it upside down well inside the trashcan and give it about a 2-3 second "spin" with the drill
6) remove the golf tee/mini from the drill head and stick it into something to dry

This technique will hurl all the excess dip off of the model and onto the trashcan inside walls. Try it with some test models to get the hang of it and get your timing down to the level of dip you want to remain on the model.

The technique works like a charm with any finecast or plastic model. With heavy metal minis, you have to get them on the tee very securely or BAD THINGS may happen.

I *may* have hurled a metal GUO (and my little plastic trashcan) 30 feet into the street - maybe... He's better now.

[Dave Fothergill]

Bigred genius idea !

[DarkLink]

I know a guy who won a Golden Daemon with his Hive Tyrant years ago who did that exact same thing with his Gaunts.

[Bigred]

My friend and I used to use flying stands before we discovered golf tees are way cheaper:

http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2007/07/tutorial-dipping-orks.html

[magickbk]

Exactly how thick is quickshade? Is it something that could be feasibly sprayed?

[Dave Fothergill]

Exactly how thick is quickshade? Is it something that could be feasibly sprayed?

It's way to thick to be sprayed its a similar consistency to pva glue

[lobster-overlord]

It's way to thick to be sprayed its a similar consistency to pva glue

It's wood stain repackaged, so that might help you in figuring out the consistency. (OK, so I don't know if it is 100% wood stain, but it's awfully close... and 3 times more expensive...)

I use it and love it. It did wonders for some old models I built 15 years ago. Dipped them and the livened up a lot.

[Dave Fothergill]

Here's one I dipped yesterday now with anti shine varnish on it if the quickshade had come off more I'd be happy

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And here's one dipped then had a "spin dry" after

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[PaD]

Just paint it on. Much less mess, much less waste, much more control. You can make it as thick or as thin as you like. Simples....

[magickbk]

It looks like there were a lot of air bubbles right after you dipped and spun, but it seems as if they went away when it dried. Did you do something to remove those, or did they just sort themselves out through the drying process?

[Tornik]

Interesting stuff. I saw Army Painter for sale locally just recently, and I was tempted to pick it up, but I've never used it before.

[Cpt Codpiece]

just buy the paint pot version :) and paint it on.

i have the pot version and it works like a charm with anti shine matte after.... i dont use it like AP tell you to though, i use it like a wash rather than a one coat wonder... i go back over and re-highlight just like normal.

but great stuff for quick hoards

[Dave Fothergill]

It looks like there were a lot of air bubbles right after you dipped and spun, but it seems as if they went away when it dried. Did you do something to remove those, or did they just sort themselves out through the drying process?


Yea they all seem to resolve themselves in drying I've one more tester to anti shine tomorrow to see how that comes out. Ill post results when I have them

[templarboy]

The stuff AP sells in a paint pot is really just a wash. One of the draws of using original Quick Shade is that it is also a varnish. I used it on 50 termagants. I want a really tough varnish on those because they get knocked around a lot. Shade and seal in one step. I do hit the models with a matte sealer after.

[Denzark]

Mr Fothergill - any chance you can turn your next photos 90 degrees so I don't get a crick in the neck?!?

[Dave Fothergill]

Mr Fothergill - any chance you can turn your next photos 90 degrees so I don't get a crick in the neck?!?


Sorry they are right way up on my screen don't know why they rotate.

[Dave Fothergill]

Here's the last tester with anti shine on

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[Dave Fothergill]

And here's my devastator squad freshly painted and quickshaded.


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Apologies for any cricked necks in viewing these pictures I've no idea why they are rotating themselves

[Dave Fothergill]

And now with anti shine on

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[Bigred]

I like em Dave.

Folks tend to forget that dipping isn't about producing Golden Daemon results. Its about getting a nice tabletop standard done in 1/3 of the time, which is a worthy goal for a lot of gamers.

For example on Dave's matte-coated Dev Sergeant, a couple of minutes of painting in the black tubing in the armpits, groin, and back of knees, and some flocking will give you a great tabletop figure.

The dip also has the added effect of unifying slightly differring point styles and colors. I knew a guy who painted half of his army, and ebayed another half, but the colors were slightly different. He did a very light dip of both batches, and rebased them all and you could not tell them apart.

The final thing a dip does is give you minis a very strong anti-scuff protective layer. My WFB Dark Elves are dipped in clear hi-gloss minwax polyurethane floor wax. The cold ones now look eternally wet and slimy and are indestructable. I've dropped them tons of times with no wear at all.

-Larry

[Deadlift]

Yep dipping is all about speed and getting table top results, I did a Blood angels Sanguinary guard army for a pal a couple years back. I used the dipping method for those guys and over a gold base coat they came out really well. I didn't dip though. Painting it on is the way to go. One thing to mention is the 3 shades Army Painter do. I personally think the mid shade is the way to go for most models. The pre painted basing sand is also a great time saver. Nice blood angels you have there and like Red says, a few extra touches and you have a perfectly nice army. Tanks though I didn't like using it on. Single models its great.
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab3/joenortonjones/41cfdb6aad19c4359cd6d00bd10f54f6.jpg

[Dave Fothergill]

Thanks for the tips ill add black tuning to the next lot of models, and ill be adding some scenery to the bases after the varnish is all dry and while its drying I've a eBay drop pod half painted to finish off.