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Rattler
12-14-2012, 05:33 AM
http://youtu.be/r0zpqhhcmp4


Just saw this video and though you all mite like it. Its a how to on how to weld plastic.

alshrive
12-14-2012, 09:01 AM
i love it at the 12 minute mark it is basically my method of testing!
hmmmm, i wonder how well stuck that is?!?!! well only one way to find out, repeatedly bash it against the workbench!

SotonShades
12-16-2012, 01:28 PM
I've just been giving this a go... How have i not known about this before?

Ok sure, there is no way I'll be using it on infantry models. But tanks, orky tech and scratchbuilds? Hell to the yeh!

I accidentally tried it out at first using a plastic tube (forgot to look at the end as I pulled it out of the bag) which gave a really nice small bead, but I used it up really quickly. I don't appear to have a solid styrene rod that small at the moment, or a tube left as big as the styrene rod I have been using since, so i don't know if it was because it was a tube or the rod diameter that had a bigger bearing on the weld bead, but either way it seems to work quite nicely.

It does appear that this would be a more expensive method of fixing plastic componants together, as I'm going through Styrene rod at a fairly quick rate. Humbrol's Poly cement, at about the same price as a 20cm rod, lasts a longer and can fix a greater extent of plastic together. It also gives a cleaner finish on joints (though depending on the look you are going for, that is not necessarilly a bad thing) and would probably be better for less accessable parts of a model, but if you are looking for a joint that needs to be strong, might be out of sight or doesn't matter about looking a little crude, then this may well be the way to go.

So tempted to buy a Leman Russ and a load of styrene and see just how much I can do without glue :P

SotonShades
12-16-2012, 01:31 PM
Also, not sure if has something to do with the difference in power supply or what, but my Rotor Craft rotarry tool running normally of the UK mains did the job perfectly well without the need to re-wire it. It does turn at 18,000 rpm rather than 16,000 (still at 12V) so possibly that has more baring on the outcome.

SotonShades
01-16-2013, 06:01 AM
In case anyone would like to know how this looks on 40k scale models;

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8048/8350399861_1bd9478dca_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8467/8354964917_ea7b9e56f8_c.jpg

Got to say it really is a blessing for scratch builders. The hold is instant, so you don't have to spend ages holding weird angles together precisely, and sooooo much stronger than glue, meaning you can weld an edge down and then bend the plasticard round a corner to get a really nice, natural curve. Then all you need to do is tack weld it in place before neatening up. I've done that several times on this Stompa head, though you can only see a couple of examples on the overhanging brow.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8327/8384593376_5238131ddc_c.jpg

guitarangry
01-16-2013, 07:28 PM
Saw your Stompa head yesterday Soton and wondererd how you did this good little vid and being an orky guy myself i may give this a go. If i can find a good cheap supply of rod near me.