Teach Me How To Airbrush

[ElectricPaladin]

I'm about to break out the technically-second-hand-used-only-once airbrush that I got from a former neighbor. I'm going to start slow, only using it to lay down a basecoat (Khorne Red) on top of a layer of black primer, though I'd like to eventually experiment with more advanced techniques like stenciling, zenithal highlighting, and other fun stuff.

The thing is, I really don't know what the hell I'm doing :-/.

So, help a battle-brother out. What are the tips and tricks of airbrushing that I should know before beginning my adventure. Remember that other than the basics in the instruction manual for the unit, I know nothing. How much should I dilute the paint? In what manner should I sweep the nozzle back and forth? Can I get a tight enough focus not to paint the walls of my balcony and get in trouble with my landlord? Who knows!?

Thanks in advance.

[Deadlift]

I'm about to break out the technically-second-hand-used-only-once airbrush that I got from a former neighbor. I'm going to start slow, only using it to lay down a basecoat (Khorne Red) on top of a layer of black primer, though I'd like to eventually experiment with more advanced techniques like stenciling, zenithal highlighting, and other fun stuff.

The thing is, I really don't know what the hell I'm doing :-/.

So, help a battle-brother out. What are the tips and tricks of airbrushing that I should know before beginning my adventure. Remember that other than the basics in the instruction manual for the unit, I know nothing. How much should I dilute the paint? In what manner should I sweep the nozzle back and forth? Can I get a tight enough focus not to paint the walls of my balcony and get in trouble with my landlord? Who knows!?

Thanks in advance.

This is a big one buddy :)

First off lets tackle the paint.
If you dead set on using GW paints then you need to thin it down. Consistancy of milk is what most people say but thats bloody confusing. 50/50 water and paint will get you going just fine. just test it 1st on something to make sure its not too thin. Some people say windex is great for thinning paint and cleaning your airbrush afterwards. I dont know as we dont have it here.
I use liquidtex airbrush medium to thin my paints. 1 part medium to 9 parts water, then its 50/50 with my paint.

If however you willing to try new paints, you cant go wrong with the Vallejo Model Air range. Its paints are airbrush ready, no need to thin but they do run out more quickly as they are already thinned.

Now Spraying
ALWAYS WEAR A MASK, and spray in a well ventilated area. Seriously it can be bad for you not too.
you want your pressure at around 20 to 25 psi, If your lucky enough to have a double action brush then you will see that the further back you pull the control on the brush the more paint will come out from the brush. Practice on some paper 1st to get a feel for paint flow control.
I do find that the nozzle on the brush can clog sometimes when spraying for some time, have some qtips or kitchen paper and whatever liquid your going to clean your brush with to hand (i will come to this in a bit). then you can wipe around the cap needle area if you notice paint flow lessens
Your compressor with luck will have a tank, if not the pressure fluctuates and the paint can pulse out of the brush. Canned air etc is false economy. Sometimes compressors shut off if they overheat. Dont worry if it does. Just turn it off and let it cool, it will be ready to use again when its cool. Nobody told me this and i thought I had destroyed my compressor on my 1st go.
Practice on some old stuff 1st

Cleaning
I always clean my brush after each session.
Here is how I do mine. 1st I fill the paint cup on the brush with water and spray it into an airbrush cleaner pot, this has a hole in the lid to put your nozzle in and it will catch the water/cleaner in a jar below. These are cheap and great to use as they stop too much mess from cleaning.
After the water, I flush again with isopropyl alcohol (easy to find on ebay). and then a quick squirt of Vallejo airbrush cleaner though the brush. Some may say overkill, but my brush cost me £140 and I aim to keep it working :). However some people swear by windex as a cleaner. Google it and you will see many people use it as both cleaner and paint thinner.

I recently bought a sonic cleaner and thats great, just plonk the brush in and fill with warm water and turn on. 3-4 sessions and your brush will be nice and shiny.

One thing you will need to practice is taking your brush apart and putting back together again. It looks hard but is actually quite easy. just do it a few times before you start painting to get the feel for it. I only remove the nozzle, the paint cup (if you can), unscrew the back end of the brush and very carefully remove the needle. clean all this in either a sonic cleaner or wipe using your choice of cleaning liquid. Be careful when removing the needle, most brushes have a needle guide by the trigger and it can fall out and be a bugger to put back in. So when your brush is in bits don't wave it around. Handle it with care, especially the needle. They are dangerous.

I dont do this every time I clean my brush, but its worth doing if you have the time.

If you have a look on youtube, you cant go wrong with searching out these guys, Buypainted, Awesomepaintjob, Wargamersconsortium, and Ichiban Studios. Also Doctor Cranky (this guy does mostly cars but his techniques are good)

I think the toughest parts are getting the paint flow right and thinning your paint, nail that and your on your way.

Hope this goes some way to helping you out

Regards

Joe

[ElectricPaladin]

This is a big one buddy :)...

Hope this goes some way to helping you out


This was the best and clearest advice I've gotten on the topic so far. Thanks.

A few follow-up questions...



First off lets tackle the paint...


I am dead set on GW paints, at least for this project. I'm kind of picky, and a lot of my GW projects have already had to weather the shift to the new line. However, I will follow your advice and use a 50/50 mixture. However, does this mean that the models will need multiple coats, or is there something about the airbrush that prevents that?

I will definitely look into Vallejo paints for future projects, though.



ALWAYS WEAR A MASK, and spray in a well ventilated area. Seriously it can be bad for you not too.


Does this mean that I should not paint on the balcony? Or are the atomized bits of paint that end up everywhere of a size that will get me in trouble with biology, but not my landlord?



you want your pressure at around 20 to 25 psi, If your lucky enough to have a double action brush then you will see that the further back you pull the control on the brush the more paint will come out from the brush. Practice on some paper 1st to get a feel for paint flow control.


What about practicing with just water and a wall?



I always clean my brush after each session.


Noted



Here is how I do mine. 1st I fill the paint cup on the brush with water and spray it into an airbrush cleaner pot, this has a hole in the lid to put your nozzle in and it will catch the water/cleaner in a jar below. These are cheap and great to use as they stop too much mess from cleaning.


I'll have to get one of those.



I recently bought a sonic cleaner and thats great, just plonk the brush in and fill with warm water and turn on. 3-4 sessions and your brush will be nice and shiny.


My wife has a sonic jewelry cleaner - same thing? Does this replace the previous process, or supplement it.



One thing you will need to practice is taking your brush apart and putting back together again...


When you can field-strip and clean your airbrush in 15 seconds, then you'll be ready...



If you have a look on youtube...


Will do.



I think the toughest parts are getting the paint flow right and thinning your paint, nail that and your on your way.


I get that this would be important for using an airbrush to actually paint, but how hard is it to get the right paint flow for relatively simple things, like using an airbrush for base-coating?

[Deadlift]

This was the best and clearest advice I've gotten on the topic so far. Thanks.

A few follow-up questions...



I am dead set on GW paints, at least for this project. I'm kind of picky, and a lot of my GW projects have already had to weather the shift to the new line. However, I will follow your advice and use a 50/50 mixture. However, does this mean that the models will need multiple coats, or is there something about the airbrush that prevents that?

I will definitely look into Vallejo paints for future projects, though.

One Coat should do, also look at getting a dropper or something you can use to draw paint from your pots and your thinner. so you get the exact ratio of paint to thinner you want.

Does this mean that I should not paint on the balcony? Or are the atomized bits of paint that end up everywhere of a size that will get me in trouble with biology, but not my landlord?

Outside is great, just watch which way the winds blowing :), I prefer inside though with open windows.

What about practicing with just water and a wall?

Paint and plasticard, otherwise you wont see if your paints too thin and will run.

Noted



I'll have to get one of those.



My wife has a sonic jewelry cleaner - same thing? Does this replace the previous process, or supplement it.

Suppliment, every 2 or 3 sessions

When you can field-strip and clean your airbrush in 15 seconds, then you'll be ready...

Lol better than myself if you get that quick

Will do.



I get that this would be important for using an airbrush to actually paint, but how hard is it to get the right paint flow for relatively simple things, like using an airbrush for base-coating?

Easy peasy
I am not so great with multiple quotes on here lol, here are the answers though.

I will add that I am a massive fan of all Vallejo products, their dropper bottles are awesome and if you do make the plunge have a look at this link so you can match up their range with GWs. However this is just for their game colour and model colour ranges and will still need to be thinned. They are still really good though and did I mention dropper bottles :)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

[ElectricPaladin]

I am not so great with multiple quotes on here lol, here are the answers though...

As you can see, I'm obsessed with it. I think it's generally part of my slightly OCD desire to make even things as petty as forum posts clear and elegant...

Re: droppers - I actually have a ton. I'm a science teacher, and my school has more droppers than anyone could reasonably want or need. I feel no shame or guilt about borrowing one.

So, you can use this thing inside and not get paint all over, say, the carpet and the walls? Does this thing have a much tighter spray radius than a spray can? Because the one time I tried to prime models indoors... it wasn't pretty.

[Emerald Rose Widow]

However, does this mean that the models will need multiple coats, or is there something about the airbrush that prevents that?

Usually one coat does the trick, with some colours you might need two, but overall not usually. I noticed lighter colours often need a second coat much more often than darker colours.

Also a suggestion for you for thinning mediums, if you are only doing base coating with it for now. If you thin the mixture with Isoprople Alcohol (rubbing alcohol) (if your airbrush can handle it) it will dry on MUCH faster.



The real trick is to not overspray and fill in all the details, just get a feel for the brush at first before spraying anything worth while.


So, you can use this thing inside and not get paint all over, say, the carpet and the walls? Does this thing have a much tighter spray radius than a spray can? Because the one time I tried to prime models indoors... it wasn't pretty.


I only advise doing it inside if you have a vented area, some overspray can come back, but the spray area is MUCH tighter on an airbrush. I know with mine the most it gets is an inch wide vs the fogging that comes froma spray can. The difference is like night and day.

[Deadlift]

As you can see, I'm obsessed with it. I think it's generally part of my slightly OCD desire to make even things as petty as forum posts clear and elegant...

Re: droppers - I actually have a ton. I'm a science teacher, and my school has more droppers than anyone could reasonably want or need. I feel no shame or guilt about borrowing one.

So, you can use this thing inside and not get paint all over, say, the carpet and the walls? Does this thing have a much tighter spray radius than a spray can? Because the one time I tried to prime models indoors... it wasn't pretty.

oh yeah much tighter, you can get indoor spray booths for around £100 here in the uk. I am sure you could get the same on your side of the pond. Yes the spray area is much tighter than aerosol. My Harder and Steinbeck evolution came with 2 needle sizes. A 0.2 and a 0.4. If you have the choice start with a bigger needle, they don't clog as easy and for base coats better anyway.
Eventually you will want nice tight lines, stripes etc. This is where low tack masking tape is great. And stencils. Don't be afraid to search in RC Car stores for bits and bobs as nobody really makes this stuff for 40k. Tamiya has some great tape.
I just use mine on an old GW paint station with windows open in front and a fan behind. The worst that will happen is a coloured dust which is easily wiped away. But put some paper down, paint station on top and you should be good to go. The only way your going to get paint on walls is if you spray them.

You mentioned Zenithal highlights, don't bother you will be beyond that stuff in no time :) enough practice and you can highlight with you brush on your marines. Like this guy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pk6YiHytunE

When you start getting into tanks etc, check out a technique called "pre-shading" its very very good. But I dont want to bog you down with too much. Feel free to PM me any time or ask away in this thread.

I am sure others will have more to add as well.


Forgot to add, get some disposable latex gloves too, and when you have airbrushing down, give me a shout and we can talk oil washes ;)

[Uncle Nutsy]

How much should I dilute the paint?

About the consistency of milk. Straight water just sucks for thinner because of the fact it beads up on a surface, so you need something to break that surface tension. Find a good acrylic thinner and combine that with water (something like a 3:1 ratio of thinner:water), then mix that with the paint. I can't recommend a certain ratio because different paints need different mixes. If it's too thick, it will take a lot of pressure to spray. If it's too thin, it will run.

In what manner should I sweep the nozzle back and forth? However you want. If you follow a certain method, you might end up hating it. so play around.
Can I get a tight enough focus not to paint the walls of my balcony and get in trouble with my landlord? Invest in a portable spray booth.

[ElectricPaladin]

Just got back from CVS with...
• Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) to use as thinner
• An oral syringe (for giving medicine to babies - comes with convenient measuring lines on the side).

Ready to figure this sh*t out.

[Uncle Nutsy]

Unless you're planning on using alcohol based acrylics, do NOT use iso as thinner! EVER! you'll get severe fisheye in the paint.

[ElectricPaladin]

Unless you're planning on using alcohol based acrylics, do NOT use iso as thinner! EVER! you'll get severe fisheye in the paint.

Even when I'm just basecoating? But... but... Emerald Rose Widow said...

[Deadlift]

Even when I'm just basecoating? But... but... Emerald Rose Widow said...

Try the windex method for thinning paint, just make sure it's the ammonia free type. or just plain good old water is just fine to start with. I use distilled water. (I add airbrush medium to it though)

But for starting out and practicing you can try with water.

http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?49876

Lots of people swear by windex.

I use a proper airbrush medium as my thinner, diluted with water 1:9.

But watch this video, helped me loads.
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=Qa9z4KDInew&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DQa9z4KDInew&gl=GB

And this too

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zw9qdL_r5xQ

http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwrel&v=m3pxO2is1K4



Here are 2 pics of recent airbrushed stuff of mine
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab3/joenortonjones/IMG_1174.jpg
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab3/joenortonjones/IMG_1184.jpg

[Cow]

I will add that the vallejo air range is brilliant and a life saver. As you can just pour it straight into your airbrush. It makes it quick and easy and you dont have to worry about pre mixing, or getting the wrong consistency

[Emerald Rose Widow]

Unless you're planning on using alcohol based acrylics, do NOT use iso as thinner! EVER! you'll get severe fisheye in the paint.


really, I have never had that issue at all, I mean I only do it sparingly, but thats weird.



Even when I'm just basecoating? But... but... Emerald Rose Widow said...

hey, noone ever said my word was gospel

[Kyban]

I'm still getting used to my airbrush, I got a really good aztek one with a compressor for christmas but haven't gotten a lot of time to use it much lately.

I use the windex method right now and it works well with GW paints, I'm pretty sure the 'active ingredient' is iso alcohol too...
I use 50% paint, 25% water and 25% windex, not sure how well iso would work or what %s to use. I'll try it out when I get the chance and tell you how it goes.

I built my own spray hood out of a plastic box, an air duct tube, and an old fan. It works well, just sucks all the paint right out the window.

[magickbk]

Liquitex airbrush medium has worked well for me, and only cost a few dollars a bottle. Added bonus of no iso smell.

[Uncle Nutsy]

Even when I'm just basecoating? But... but... Emerald Rose Widow said...

yes, even with baecoating. It's all to do with incompatible carriers.

Keep in mind, paint is made up of two things. The pigment, and carrier. Pigment is what gives you your color. The carrier suspends the pigment and allows you to paint with it.

Remember from science when water and alcohol mix?

[ElectricPaladin]

Ok, everyone: update time.

I messed around with the airbrush a while, and I think I've got the hang of it. I know what buttons to press, what nob things to pull, and how to point the whole thing in the right direction. Then I ran a whole mess of alcohol through it, so it should be more or less clean.

The only problem I'm having right now is that getting the paint out of the GW pot in a controlled way, such that I can measure how much I'm putting into the airbrush, is a pain in the butt. I may end up investing in airbrush paints just so I'm not dealing with this BS anymore. Alternately, I'll go to Michael's and buy some larger, more accessible paint pots. We'll see.