Question: What kinds of models would YOU reccomend to represent Orgryns?

[01271]

Title says it all: I was kind of appalled at the prices of orgryns and the somewhat bad look they have and was wondering if there were any good replacements. I looked at mantic forge fathers (http://www.beastsofwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Mantic-Plastic-Forge-Fathers.jpg) and they'd fit the bill pretty well with a bit of conversion work so I'm kind of leaning that way but still want to have some other opinions.

I'm looking for:


Burly and big
Humanoid
Large weapons that could pass for shotguns
Mostly angular armour
Possibly robotic

models.

I can cut, pin and work somewhat well with plastic but I can't greenstuff so the models shouldn't require sculpting.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.


Also here's a image of an orgryn for no reason other than to make this otherwise bland post pop a bit.
http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/mediawiki/images/thumb/b/b1/IG5EOgryns.jpg/200px-IG5EOgryns.jpg

[Mr.Pickelz]

The Ogrun Assault Core squad from Privateer Press would be a good substitute.

http://privateerpress.com/warmachine/gallery/mercenaries/units/ogrun-assault-corps

[George Labour]

I've been pondering using plastis GW minotaurs with some spare shootas I have left over from my long departed orks. Though It's been more of a thought exercise since I managed to get my hands on some of the new ogryns after placing in a few tournaments some years ago.

[Cpt Codpiece]

not to sound overly negative, but now may be a good time to start GS work :)

its pretty simple adding shoulder pads with plasticard and smoothing out details with GS, even adding vests and caps is quick and easy.

in that case a box of ogres and a pack of GS with a small pot of vaseline will do the trick nicley. just need some spare heavy bolters/autocannon to make the ripper guns, or some plasticard tubing and more plasticard for the main body of the gun.

[01271]

The Ogrun Assault Core squad from Privateer Press would be a good substitute.


Oh wow, those look good. With a bit of filing down to flatten the armour out they'd be perfect! (There's even one with a skullcap that kinda looks like he could be a bone 'ead. Thanks!



not to sound overly negative, but now may be a good time to start GS work :)

Well, I'll look into it but so far I haven't got the confidence in me for all that epoxy putty. I'll have to look at some tutorials I think.

[MaltonNecromancer]

If you don't want to sculpt and like robotic stuff, try Pig-Iron's Wardroids:

http://www.pig-iron-productions.com/bmz_cache/b/b37dcc031a0d60edcbcaf6b3faefe3bb.image.733x550.jpg

http://www.pig-iron-productions.com/wd2-wardroid-walking-p-35.html

We actually had a thread on this a while ago: http://www.lounge.belloflostsouls.net/showthread.php?t=20792

[Majorcrash]

when i built my guard army a few years ago, i wanted to add orgyns. I didnt like the look of the new ones and couldnt make the WHFB orges work either, Gw as a habot of making some model cartoony. Orgryn are supposed to be just bigger version of humans. I came across the inquisitor models that gw makes. they have imperial guardsmen in diferent formats, as i was doing valhallens i picked the ones in long coats and valhallen heads. there are several to chose from. not sure of price now, might not be much cheaper but.............

[Cpt Codpiece]

Well, I'll look into it but so far I haven't got the confidence in me for all that epoxy putty. I'll have to look at some tutorials I think.

if you start, just try small things like straps for weapons and trouser suspenders. just try not to rush. GS takes a long time to cure so you dont have to get what you see in your head straight away and build in layers, small bits allow you to build slowly and get the right effect.

never buy GS from GW they are a rip off. i get 4' of GS (on ebay) for a little more than the 6" GW sells.

those wardroids look cool though, i would sculpt skin and stuff around the structure to make armoured ogryns :)

[MaltonNecromancer]

Also, don't forget - GS isn't the only putty.

It's really good for skin, muscle and fleshy bits, but I'd never use it for armour or things with flat edges, as it's a pig to work with after it's cured. I seriously recommend Milliput, which is a lot tackier when "wet", but dries to the consistency of sandstone rather than plastic, so you can cut really sharp edges to shapes with serious ease.

Examples of my Milliput work (and I'm no great sculptor!)

Unpainted cloak -
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb183/MaltonNecromancer/Deathwatch%202011/P4090258.jpg

Painted -
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb183/MaltonNecromancer/Deathwatch%202011/P5020264.jpg

Painted armour and trenchcoat -
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb183/MaltonNecromancer/2010%20Works%20in%20Progress/PC190265.jpg

[Cpt Codpiece]

yeah milliput is great, if a little grainy. i like the porcelain white ultra fine one.
milliput can be mixed with GS (and other two part air cure putties) to combine the effects. GS and MP gives the plyability and working texture of GS with the weight and body of MP, but also allows you to drill the end result whioch GS does not allow (you can but it peels and does not hold a pin very well)

nice work on the capes BTW MN the GK one looks smoother than i would have expected from MP. a perfect example of where i was going with the ogre to ogryn conversion :)

[MaltonNecromancer]

milliput is great, if a little grainy

Totally disagree with you there. If you've got a grainy finish, something's up with your MP!


the GK one looks smoother than i would have expected from MP

It's my best example of the results you can get from shaving MP down once it's cured. None of this "smooth it down with a wet finger" rubbish. Leave it all bobbly and grainy, then use a scalpel to carefully pare it down until it's perfect. You wouldn't believe how sharp you can get the creases that way. MP and GS are totally different materials, and need to be treated in totally different ways. Try to sculpt MP and you'll do okay - do a basic bit of sculpting then carve it afterwards and you can get some great stuff. When you then sculpt fine GS details on top?

It's all about understanding the different properties of each material and adjusting your techniques accordingly.