Recommend a glue.

[Deadlift]

So I have read that GWs plastic glue is no good for PP Plastics. So which brand do you guys use ?
I am looking at trying filla glu but unsure which one is the better one to go for. Failing that I was thinking of sticking with (sorry but couldn't resist) GW super glue.
What do you think ?

[Quattro]

I don't know if this is the best but I've been using INSTA-CURE Gap Filling Cyanoacrylate, it works well with both the pewter figures and the new plastic ones..

[Forrix]

for plastics i have yet to find anything that beats testors plastic cement it is amazing and saved my sanity after struggling to fit together my first battleforce box for many hours and several different glues. I have not found anything to match yet it dries up fast and holds better then anything else ive found. Ii strongly recommend it.

[Dyrnwyn]

I advise sticking to some form of superglue - plastics still make up a fairly small portion of PP's lineup, and superglue will serve you better in putting together their restic AND metal miniatures. Myself, I've been using Gorilla Glue's super glue, and have been very happy with it. The bottle design is good, with a metal peg plugging the applicator hole. It's easy to open even after sitting for a while, and I have not had to cut the bottle at all.

[Isante]

I use krazy glue found pretty much anywhere. Cheap and works very well, plus it comes with a brush on thingy so its pretty nice for getting the glue exactly where you want it!

[the_puritan]

ZAP! all the way. ZAP-a-cap or ZAP-a-gap, you can't really go wrong with either.
I've tried others and none of them have beat the consistency (not in a viscosity kind of way, more like in a reliability kind of way) or the fast action of ZAP.
The bottles hardly ever clog and they never leak (due to having double caps for their bottles) which is huge for me since I travel with glue often.

[lobster-overlord]

PPs models are not a Polystyrene plastic, which is what Plastic glues work on. It is more akin to ABS plastics, which if you've ever tried to use model glue on a LEGO, you know really doesn't work well at all. It's toy plastic, not model kit plastic. You must use the super glues on PP models to get any kind of good bond.

I use Loctite mostly these days, and the few cyrx models I've made have been fine with that brand.

@Forrix, did you use the orange tube glue to some success with the PP Modesl? If so, that's the first I've heard it working, so I must try that myself.

[Sinsinatus]

For plastic models, I only use Testors Model Masters series plastic glue number 8872. Flows well and has a superfine metal applicator needle. The black bottle looks the same as the one sold at Wal-mart but is NOT the same stuff. Check a train shop or Hobbytown USA. They usually have it.

Sinsinatus

[Harmonious Borealis]

I advise sticking to some form of superglue - plastics still make up a fairly small portion of PP's lineup, and superglue will serve you better in putting together their restic AND metal miniatures. Myself, I've been using Gorilla Glue's super glue, and have been very happy with it. The bottle design is good, with a metal peg plugging the applicator hole. It's easy to open even after sitting for a while, and I have not had to cut the bottle at all.

Second on the Gorilla Super Glue. I'm on my second bottle after discovering it. However, in some cases, it seems nothing can defeat the ridiculously tiny gluing surfaces that many Privateer infantry models sport :o

[ARBAL]

Hi, I wrote soething about glues on my blog:
http://coloureddust.blogspot.com/2012/07/modelling-materials-part-2.html
maybe this can help you...

[olberon]

ZAP! all the way. ZAP-a-cap or ZAP-a-gap, you can't really go wrong with either.
I've tried others and none of them have beat the consistency (not in a viscosity kind of way, more like in a reliability kind of way) or the fast action of ZAP.
The bottles hardly ever clog and they never leak (due to having double caps for their bottles) which is huge for me since I travel with glue often.

deffo zap ... im a zap addict!!