Airbrush help

[Forrix]

I have just started playing around with a cheap airbrush that happened to come along with the air compressor i really wanted. As a result i have a couple questions.

1.) Does anyone have a recomendation for a mid ranged airbush preferable dual action with changeable color cups

2.) What kind of ratio do most of you use in your GW paints water to paint im having a hard time

3.) Has anyone noticed metalic paints in general seem to clog up the brush or is it just me?

thank you for your time and any help hope to hear from you soon.

[westside]

I have a Paasche VL which I got years ago, it's good enough for me. A dealer on the internet has some really great deals on quite a wide varity http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/

I used to use jars, but now I pretty much stick with the cups.

I tend to use Testors Universal Acrylic Thinner instead of water when I thin the paints (to avoid hard water). For most Citadel paints I thin them anywhere from 1 part thinner to 2 parts paint up to 1 to 1.

With most airbrushes the size of your needle and tip you use is important in determining how thin the paint needs to be. Your air pressure is also an important factor, I usually stick around 25 to 30 psi.

I have also used Vallejo Air line, I didn't like it as much as the Citadel (which is a shame due to price, range, etc.). It took longer to dry and at least for the line of base coats seemed to lead to chipping. It seemed to also like to be thinned with water instead of the thinner (and often didn't need thinning at all), I think they even recommend using a proprietary thinner, so it may just be due to their formula.

Make sure to mix your paints well before thinning them, some paints can develop 'clumps' if they sit. The metallics do seem to be prone for cloging. After you thin them, you can run the paint through a small sieve (the airbrush store should have some) which will help prevent the clogging.

[AbusePuppy]

Don't use water, it dries too slowly and can cause spattering. If you're cheap, Windex (or similar) can work and won't cause any discoloration; a more midrange option is rubbing alcohol (99%), which will evaporate away and leave the paint dry almost immediately. Airbrush-specific thinning mediums are also available and will keep paint suspended a little better, but are obviously more expensive than other options.

[Warhamster77]

windex will guarantee that your model will chip and flack. I use water with Reaper paints on a 1/1 mix. GW paints require a flow media added to them almost to 2/1 ratio and will still make sputtering. And yes metal paints will clog your airbrush. I brush my metals on with flow media, I have better control that way, and Tamiya is the best for that application.

[Meph]

For medium, I use vallejo airbrush thinner and demineralized water, like they use for ironing clothes, great stuff.

For airbrush and compressor, I suggest to do a search on the forum on subject 'airbrush', you'll find a lot of useful threads and posts. but to copy paste one of my earlier rants:

Well, to try and keep it brief, when buying a compressor, always go for something that's kitted out like this:
http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/COMPLETE-AIRBRUSH-KIT-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-WITH-TANK-/350446067151?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item5198369dcf


They key elements here are:
1: An airtank, this will keep your pressure constant (critical!) as well as keep the noise down. I have a compressor like the one from ebay and it's actually pretty silent but in any case it shuts off when the tank is full and autostarts when the pressure drops.

2: A moisture trap (the glass jar/bottle thingy), this will keep the condense out of your airflow, meaning that you will not get any unexpected spatters and gurgles when airbrushing due to water in the airflow...

Buying a compressor without these two features is a waste of money.

For airbrushes, while I'm no expert on the dozens of brands out there, don't go for something too cheap, don't go for something too expensive (yet). Personally I'd go for a double-action bottom feeder.
The dual action means that you can regulate air pressure as well as amount of paint at the same time and gives a good versatility. The bottom feeder means you can have a truckload of little jars with your own premixed paint read and switch quite easily between them. Be aware though that after each use of each colour you need a couple of minutes to clean the airbrush in any case.

A single action airbrush is always a nice addition as well as the simpler mechanics means it's a bit easier to use for heavy-duty stuff like undercoating and basecoating but personally i just use a spraycan for base coating and my dual action for basecoating as well as the finer stuff.

Invest is some extra pots for your airbrush when you buy it, about a dozen or so. Believe me, you will use them...
And buy some paint thinner and airbrush cleaner product. I personally am a huge fan of Vallejo's products for that, they also have both in large 20ml bottles, which is handy.

A gravity feeder airbrush is more handy for fine detail work as the little gravity cup is quite practical for small amounts of paint, but most bottom feeders also have a little 'bucket' for the smaller amounts of paint.

[Forrix]

Thanks so much for the suggestions so its pretty clear to me i have been thining entirely wrong. And i can definitely see how multiple pots would be useful already. Thank you for the time and advice ill go hunt up some of that paint thinner in the near future.

[Erik_Morkai]

For metallic paints avoid the citadel one if you are using an airbrush. Use the Vallejo model air ones.

As for an affordable airbrush, I heard (Have not tried first hand but you can look up reviews) the Badger Patriot 105 was decent or the Badger Renegade series which is a little more expensive.

[Meph]

Hmmm, true, Vallejo's metallics are more runny than GW's but if you thin 'm enough, they can be sprayed well enough. i use them all the time.

When thinning inks, be sure to use just water or demineralized water though, as regular acrylic thinner is usually slightly milky. Perfect for normal paints but they will discolour inks.