PDA

View Full Version : Applying transfers to SM shoulder pads



mordiano
10-03-2011, 11:47 AM
Hi there,

Im thinking about applying transfers to my SM (SW). I am though, a bit catious since last time i tried it they came of eventually.

Now what I've heared is that the surface should be primed before...

...and sealed afterwards

Is this true and what products do you recommend if so?¿

BTW. They are codex grey w. devlan mud so nothing to glossy...


cheers,

mordiano

Wildeybeast
10-03-2011, 12:25 PM
I did this with my Raven Gaurd as their chapter logo is a b1tch to paint freehand. I had the problem that they kept coming off, so I asked a guy in the store and he gave me a method that has worked on every model I've done so far. Follow the normal method for applying the transfer by dipping it in water to remove it from backing. Shake off as much excess water as you can, then apply it to the model, dabbing off any excess water. Then use a watered down matt varnish to seal it on (I used a ratio of around 50/50, a greater amount of varnish will give you a better seal, but obviously too much makes it clearly shiny). Don't touch the model until it is fully dry as you risk knocking it off, but once dry the models can be handled usually. I had to experiment with a couple of models to get it so I was happy, but this method worked. As for priming the model, I just painted it normally.

boestera
10-03-2011, 01:50 PM
I used to have issues with space marine shoulder pads, at the time I learned if I cut out reliefs into the transfer it allowed it to bend to match the surface better, but then I learned about Micro Sol.

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-2&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=0

This stuff works wonders on decals, it softens the decal so much that it conforms to piece and looses all its glossy-ness.

Lunar Camel
10-03-2011, 01:52 PM
Here's my method that I have gotten great results with:

After you've finished painting the model, I use GW gloss varnish on the area the decal is going on. This makes it a sold surface with no pores that the decal can grab onto. Next, cut out the decal from the sheet. Now with Space Marine shoulder pads, because they are round, you need to cut a small slit from the center of the decal outward. This will cause the decal to become like a dome when you place it on the shoulder pad instead of crumpling in different areas.

Once the decal slips off the backing, I brush Microscale Industries, Inc's "MicroSet" on the shoulder pad. This is a setting solution for decals and softens the decal and makes it adhere better. Usually costs about $3.50 for 1 fl. oz.

Put the decal on a position it. Then I use "MicroSol" ($3.50 for 1 fl oz). Don't use too much as this actually melts the decal and conforms it perfectly to the model (especially if the decal is on ridges, rivets, or grooves).

Let the decal dry completely. The last step before using a matte sealer is to paint over the decal with the gloss varnish again. This will seal the decal to the model so it won't rub off. Once the matte sealer is sprayed on, it won't be glossy at all and the decal will look like it was painted on.

The Ultramarines symbol on the shin pad is a decal.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SJhfsTLiM-8/TooR2eaUfOI/AAAAAAAAAGE/l_tphW8u_1k/s320/Dreadnought.JPG

Deadlift
10-03-2011, 03:07 PM
I too use both the microsol and microset for my transfers, it's really easy to use and gives great results. However if your after the freehand look you could always do what I have done in the past and that is to paint over the transfer once it's dried on. Use the transfer as your painting guide. You can highlights and shadeing etc.

JonnyRoxtar
10-03-2011, 03:33 PM
For best results with decals on any surface, you should apply them on a glossy finish using microsol and microset, then apply matt varnish. This should ensure a nigh invisible decal ridge. However the gloss varnish thing is usually too much of a chore for most flat surfaces to warrant doing it.

whargoul666
10-03-2011, 06:29 PM
Here is what I have had good results doing:

Gloss the shoulder pad
Paint MicroSet on pad
Decal on pad (I have never had to cut a slit in any of my decals, the Set/Sol products will take care of you there).
MicroSet on decal
Dry/Press decal (Carefully)
MicroSol
Matte (lite)
Matte (lite)
Matte again, because the gloss/microsol is SHINEY!