Help with bases, weathering etc...

[Dominic]

BoLS community, I need your help! :D

Due to the fact that I don't think I'll be able to fund much more into warhammer 40k, I want to do one last army to a high standard (good painting, fluff and the likes). So, I've chosen to do an IG army (not a cheesy leafblower list by the way)

Anyways, part of their fluff is that they are fighting on a marshy/muddy world and I want to be able to model them with alot of thick mud on thier bases and on the tank tracks.

What I want from you is advice on (links to tutorials on the subjects would be great):


Wet mud bases, I was thinking of taking about 1-2mm off the bottom of all my models, then creating a mix out of PVA glue and snow flock, putting that on the bases, then painting it brown with water effects put over the top; but I hope someone has a tried and tested method, as I'm not the hobby genius!

A way of making wet mud on the tanks traps and applying wed mudddish weathering

and just some tips on making some really battle damaged tanks!


Any advice and info would be great thanks,

Dom

[fade_74]

Go to youtube and type in "using pigments to make mud", there are lots of good video tutorials.

[Denzark]

My tank muddying method:

Blob on Snakebite leather. When dry, blob on random either flesh-wash or chestnut ink (when it runs out I will probably use a new wash but until then I use these older colours). The ink wash does not need to colour all the snakebite leather, make it random.

Then at random add purity seal to high gloss odd drops where it is still wet or watery.

The technique is dead quick, goes on to tracks, underside, along track guards and in odd laces it looks like it might reach. Also if there is step-plates some might go on there. This looks like a tank on a wet mud battlefield as opposed to the 'dust-mud' effect some people and/or weathering powders do.



Top battle damage tip - don't overdo it. Remember especially on frontal armour, only high powered weapons would penetrate the casing - most stuff will just scratch the paint so a line of deep pin-vised 'bolter holes' looks gash to people who have seen real damage.