PDA

View Full Version : Super Glue Question



Garradh
05-22-2011, 11:39 AM
I recently moved to the middle of nowhere and my favorite super glue dried up. The only super glue I can find around here is Gorilla Glue brand superglue (not the rubber cement stuff, the actual super glue stuff). Has anyone used this? Is it any good? I have a Vindicator in desperate need of assembly and I want to get it done today on my day off.

Thanks!

Machinator
05-22-2011, 11:43 AM
I tried it before and wasn't too impressed. Loctite makes a superglue that should be pretty easy to find (Walmart carries it). That's what I use and it works great.

Garradh
05-22-2011, 11:47 AM
Thanks for the reply. The nearest Walmart is an hour away (like I said, middle of nowhere!) so I think I'll give this Gorilla stuff a try on a few Tac Marines before I worry about the Vindicator.

Denzark
05-22-2011, 12:31 PM
I have had good results with gorilla and like the metal bit in the cap which keeps the nozzle clear.

A modelling store once passed on to my dad a tip that the superglue rep passedon - keep it in the fridge, it lasts longer. Surprsingly this works!

Uncle Nutsy
05-22-2011, 01:20 PM
superglue works decently. But for a really good bond, use plastic cement with some sprue melted inside it. I call it "Goo".

Another good glue to use is JB weld. It's a two part epoxy but when it dries, it's solid.

Emerald Rose Widow
05-22-2011, 02:26 PM
superglue works decently. But for a really good bond, use plastic cement with some sprue melted inside it. I call it "Goo".

Another good glue to use is JB weld. It's a two part epoxy but when it dries, it's solid.

JB weld is amazing and the bond of that stuff takes a lot to break, but it takes FOREVER to dry, but it doesnt break. Used it to hold on my sideview mirror on my car for years, took 2 years of harsh Iowa winters and an accidental hipbump of clumsyness to break it off.

whargoul666
05-22-2011, 03:13 PM
Off topic, but that regular Gorilla Glue (not the super glue stuff) might look like rubber cement, but it is NOT. It actually is really good for making terrain. Try squirting out a puddle on wax paper and misting it with a water gun, then let it dry and see what happens! It's great for rubble (just throw some sprues or "bricks" or whatever crap is on hand on top) and mud (I use this around the edges of water terrain to great effect). I have also found that the texture of it changes if you put another piece of wax paper on top, I have been fiddling around with this trying to make craters (wax paper then glue then wax paper then poolball on top).

Garradh
05-22-2011, 05:14 PM
Here's the report:

Gorilla Glue brand superglue worked fine. Slower bond than the ZAP I'm used to, but a very solid bond. It also has this little metal rod in the cap that slips into the open hole of the glue, designed to keep it from bonding shut. Seems to work okay.

Irongut
05-22-2011, 09:17 PM
Forget JB weld for our hobby- go with JB Kwik, same stuff but sets in under five minutes. Works fantastic for magnets and metal.

Emerald Rose Widow
05-22-2011, 09:43 PM
Forget JB weld for our hobby- go with JB Kwik, same stuff but sets in under five minutes. Works fantastic for magnets and metal.


ooo, good to know, ill keep that in mind for the future.

Meph
05-23-2011, 12:43 AM
Another eye-opener... superglue activator. I recently started using it and I don't know how I survived the decades without it... Instant fix! Especially handy when attaching magnets.

FastEd
05-23-2011, 02:59 AM
Activator is great, but be careful not to over do it. If it's a really heavy piece being supported by just the glue it's best to not use an activator as the slightly quicker curing process tends to leave the glue (only very slightly) weaker. That said, you should probably be pinning that kind of join anyways, in which case the activator being used isn't a big deal.