Painting a 'Clarke' Pattern Rhino

[Phoenikuz]

Hi all, long time lurker first time poster.

I've recently been rather hooked on Rogue Traders and figured that I should create a personalized vehicles for my own Rogue Trader; Sebastian von Fintelmann.

I'm about to kick off a narrative Necromunda (well, Book of the Arbitrator really) campaign set on a 'recently' colonized world where two Rogue Trader families have engaged in a feud...

Anyway, long story short, here's the Exploration and Survey Rhino courtesy of the Von Fintelmann family:

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader014.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader013.jpg

This is my first real attempt at painting a vehicle; I normally loathe painting them as I can never get 'em to 'pop' and look any good; they always end up looking rather flat. So, with this in mind I'm attempting to go all out on this vehicle and give it my best attempt; without the aid of any airbrush or weathering powders ;)

Cheers and thanks for looking!

[Skragger]

I tend to have the same issue with vehicles not 'popping' and being very flat. One thing I found helps is to highlight the edges, or try to add some scraped off paint around the edges (I found after the paint has dried just running a small bit of steel wool around the edges achieves this effect nicely).

Also, if you have a large flat area to cover, try adding some detail work - an army logo or something. Especially with Rhinos you tend to get a lot of open space along the sides. Thats where those army logos or hellish water transfers, or bitz come in.

Overall a very nice job though! Well done! :D

[Meph]

Looks like a good start mate. i love the look of that old Rhino. Hmm to make vehicles 'pop' I find that a light wash with very heavilly thinned oil paint works like a charm. Either with black or very dark brown. Even more than normal washes, oil paints tent to 'suck' themselves into nooks & crannies as well as very gently shade every little dimple in the paint, giving some depth to flat plating. The other cool thing about the oil paint+ turpentine mix is that it does not tend to add a full layer of colour to the underlying paint job. Because of using a heavy turpentine mix (easily 10:1 or even 15:1) the paint pigment tends to 'retreat' into the recesses as the turpentine evaporates, laving the raised surfaces relatively untouched.

[Skragger]

I'd listen to Meph :D

My methods tend to be quick n' dirty, but still get the job done... if you squint.. a lot..

His tend to be gorgeous and amazing and bow-down worthy!

[Phoenikuz]

@Skragger - First off, thank you! And I will keep those ideas in mind when I get around detailing the Rhino. So far i've decided to paint the side doors in the Von Fintelmann family colours (Red/White/Something...) with some various detailing here and there.

And I'm definately going to add some checkers some place on the machine! Just gives it that gothic-old-school charm IMO :D

@Meph - Thanks for the great suggestions! However, as Skragger said, I'm looking at some sort of fast and dirty method to make it pop. My current idea is to paint some rust here and there using a heavily thinned paint, and try to give it as many interesting details for the eye to look at... possibly might use some washes in the recesses of the vehicle and top it off with a very, very light dusting/drybrush of a light sand colour.

Oh and add some wear and tear here and there, as well as some weathering.

But I will keep the idea of using oil paints (which I don't have, currently) in mind for the future. Might be just the thing in the end. Thanks!

[Skragger]

@Skragger - First off, thank you! And I will keep those ideas in mind when I get around detailing the Rhino. So far i've decided to paint the side doors in the Von Fintelmann family colours (Red/White/Something...) with some various detailing here and there.

And I'm definately going to add some checkers some place on the machine! Just gives it that gothic-old-school charm IMO :D

Always nice with the checkers! Something nice and dark to contrast the red and white. Maybe a purple (like Necron Abyss?), but thats up to you of course! I've also found drybrushing some scortched brown, around the treads to give it a splattered mud look, or if the doors open, on the ramps to show lads tracking mud into the vehicle.

What I tend to do, to expand on the steel wool idea, is paint a layer of boltgun metal onto the tank, then a bit of rusty copper ontop (lightly), then the blood red I use as my main army colour, then gently rub the steel wool over the edges to it scrapes off the red paint, but leaves the silvery-coppery colours below. Rub too hard and you'll expose the plastic. Gentle rubbing! GENTLE!

When I get the chance I'll upload a pic of how it looks, or you can just test it for yourself as well

((Ah the clarke. We have the Vindicator, the Redeemer, the Crusader, the Clarke, Jeff, and Steve patterns too!))

[Phoenikuz]

Unfortunately, checkers are no-go - I just can't paint straight to save my life, so for now I'll have to rely on transfers for the checkers or similar. I'm going to add some chipping and mud/dirt around the side hatches... and get going on those warning chevrons on the side as well.

Anyway, here's the progressreport so far:

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader016.jpg

[Skragger]

Looking good! Playing Orks getting the checkers right isn't so bad, but with more professional armies, getting it to look good it a key.

I did some checkers for a buddy of mine's land raider, and what I did was take a black, felt tip marker (the super fine needle point ones) and the smallest straight edged thing you can find (I think I used a warhammer fantasy base) and use it to draw out the checker pattern on the area you're working on. This lets you get straight lines every time, and because its such a small line, you can either use it as an outline, or if you make a mistake, its easy to paint over! Keep up the good work!

[Phoenikuz]

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader022.jpg

It's finished! Well, of sorts.

I'm going to wait on adding transfers until I've either found some that I like or that I've picked up some microsol/set and figured out how to use it.

I tried a whole lot of things for this paintjob; but the thing that paid off the most was, in my oppionion, the weathering and the battledamage:

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader034.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader033.jpg

Took some time to get right, but now I've kept the mixtures used (basically just took two colours of Vallejo Model Color browns, added a lot of water, mixed and kept it) and now I'm rather eager to get to paint more vehicles!

The battledamage was done by taking a small bit of sponge on a stick, dip it in black, splosh it on random areas followed by a similar, smaller, splosh of boltgun metal.

So there we have it, the Clarke Pattern Rhino; any comments or critique?

Oh, there's bound to be an update, later on, with some stats for this baby over on my blog in a couple of hours (http://portmaw.blogspot.com) both for 5th and "2nd" edition!

[Phoenikuz]

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader022.jpg

It's finished! Well, of sorts.

I'm going to wait on adding transfers until I've either found some that I like or that I've picked up some microsol/set and figured out how to use it.

I tried a whole lot of things for this paintjob; but the thing that paid off the most was, in my oppionion, the weathering and the battledamage:

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader034.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader033.jpg

Took some time to get right, but now I've kept the mixtures used (basically just took two colours of Vallejo Model Color browns, added a lot of water, mixed and kept it) and now I'm rather eager to get to paint more vehicles!

The battledamage was done by taking a small bit of sponge on a stick, dip it in black, splosh it on random areas followed by a similar, smaller, splosh of boltgun metal.

So there we have it, the Clarke Pattern Rhino; any comments or critique?

Oh, there's bound to be an update, later on, with some stats for this baby over on my blog in a couple of hours (http://portmaw.blogspot.com) both for 5th and "2nd" edition!

[Phoenikuz]

So, I finished it yesterday! But somehow the post dissapeared into a moderator limbo from which it has yet to return. Thus I'm attempting to repost...

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader023.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader029.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader024.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Phoenikuz/5th%20Edition/roguetrader027.jpg

Hopefully it won't be eaten by a moderator... again.

For some more information, swing by my blog for a bit of rules and fluff (http://portmaw.blogspot.com)!

[Meph]

Looking good man!

Oh and as a side note. For actual usagen while they may seem daunting, oil paints are actually faster than acryllic inks, and allow for correction after drying (untill fixated with a varnish coat). They do need a minimum overnight to dry though. ;)

[gcsmith]

thats good painting :)

[Phoenikuz]

Looking good man!

Oh and as a side note. For actual usagen while they may seem daunting, oil paints are actually faster than acryllic inks, and allow for correction after drying (untill fixated with a varnish coat). They do need a minimum overnight to dry though. ;)

Cheers!

I'm rather positive about using normal paint as a weathering tool, although it leaves my fingers slightly messy. And a whole overnight for drying?! Good heavens man, I've got patience, yes, but not that much patience :D


thats good painting :)

Thanks! :)