making clear resin/plastic models

[Missinglink]

Does anyone know how, or has anyone made clear resin/plastic parts from plastic ones? Ideally, I am going to make a unit of models from plastic into clear resin.

I am wondering:
A) how? Casting? Molding? Multi part molding?
B) is it better in cast pieces or cast the sprue?
C) is it better/easier to cast the whole model?

I've seen Tau Stealth Suits cast in clear resin to represent their Stealth ability and it looked awesome. I am wanting something similar, but for a different army.

I want to do a unit of Ghost knight terminators with GM Mordrak. If the termies were clear, and then painted a certain way, it would make them look incorporeal. Adding a LED may make them glow too. Its too cool a visual to pass up.

So, If i cast he actual sprue in clear resin (or some other clear plastic), I would assume (noob thoughts here) I could then assemble the models normally. I know, I know, in theory. Or would I assemble the actual plastic Termie models and make individual casts? Is this even reasonable? Possible?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Derek

[DrLove42]

I don't really know

However I will share the story of someone silly

Years ago they did a special edition Frodo with Ring from LotR for its release. he was cast in a clear plastic, boviuosly ebing "invisible" cos he was wearing the ring. One young man came in one day, having bought him the week before and asked "Right, I spray painted him black, like all my other models, now how do i Paint him to look invisible?"

[Missinglink]

I don't really know

However I will share the story of someone silly

Years ago they did a special edition Frodo with Ring from LotR for its release. he was cast in a clear plastic, boviuosly ebing "invisible" cos he was wearing the ring. One young man came in one day, having bought him the week before and asked "Right, I spray painted him black, like all my other models, now how do i Paint him to look invisible?"

LOL
Now that made my day.:)

thanks

[Lane]

Copyright issues aside here is my opinion.

1)Silicone RTV molds, water clear urethane resin, Vacuum and pressure chambers.

Clear parts are not a good project if you do not know resin casting techniques. Clear resin is unforgiving and more expensive.

2) cast pieces. Remove any flash or mold lines as these will be reproduced by the casting. You will also need to change sprue and vent locations from the injection process.

3)Easier - no, better - maybe. The main problem with multi part clear models is assembly. Any joint will have a transition from resin - glue - resin and may show up. Plastic glue will not work on resin. Superglue releases vapors that deposit on other areas of model and make the hazy (ref - poorly done clear canopies)

[Lerra]

If you've never done casting before, your best bet for this project is to hire someone who already has the materials/equipment/experience to do it for you. You'd spend upwards of a thousand dollars if you wanted to make your own high-quality clear resin models because clear resin requires higher quality stuff than regular resin.

[bdix]

If you look at Bruno Rizzo's tau army stealth suits, he paints them in a way to make them look invisible within the army's scheme.

[Missinglink]

If you've never done casting before, your best bet for this project is to hire someone who already has the materials/equipment/experience to do it for you. You'd spend upwards of a thousand dollars if you wanted to make your own high-quality clear resin models because clear resin requires higher quality stuff than regular resin.

Thanks. The more research I do, the more I feel this will be the route to take. I was hoping it would be more straight forward than it is becoming. From a lack of experience point of view. If I had the time and the money, than why not right?

[Lane]

You'd spend upwards of a thousand dollars if you wanted to make your own high-quality clear resin models because clear resin requires higher quality stuff than regular resin.

Well the resin itself is only about twice the price of regular resin.

The real cost is you need either experience or equipment. I know there are people out there that can make better castings than me without the special equipment I use, however they spent a lot on materials to gain that experience.

[chromedog]

Copyright issues aside here is my opinion.

1)Silicone RTV molds, water clear urethane resin, Vacuum and pressure chambers.

Clear parts are not a good project if you do not know resin casting techniques. Clear resin is unforgiving and more expensive.

2) cast pieces. Remove any flash or mold lines as these will be reproduced by the casting. You will also need to change sprue and vent locations from the injection process.

3)Easier - no, better - maybe. The main problem with multi part clear models is assembly. Any joint will have a transition from resin - glue - resin and may show up. Plastic glue will not work on resin. Superglue releases vapors that deposit on other areas of model and make the hazy (ref - poorly done clear canopies)

^This.
Not a project for the new-to-resin casting.
Still tricky even for those with the skills and experience.

You need to pressure cast it, as clear resin is prone to bubbling, which reduces the clarity and transparency of the casts.
I've made clear cast pieces before - I made a crystalline handgun out of purple tinted clear polyurethane resin as well as a couple of rather vague humanoid clear figures (for denoting a kind of thermoptic camouflage for an rpg years ago.).

Without the pressure casting, the results were less than stellar. Bubbled, foggy resin. With the pressure cast, they were almost perfect. They still needed a buff with some silver polish, but they worked well.
(Silver polish is a very soft abrasive polish. Computer case modders use it to polish scratches out of the clear plexi sheets they use for 'windows' into the cases).

As to gluing a multi-part clear piece, you would have to use an adhesive that had a similar diffraction index as the resin - which pretty much limits you to certain araldite type adhesives. There are some glues that do 'invisible' mends for glassware that do the same thing. There is also a Zap formula for clear plastic parts that doesn't fog the clear parts.

It can be done, it just isn't for the faint-of-heart or the new-to-casting.

[dwez]

Often thought a clear plastic Terminator would be cool. It could represent it telporting and you could paint the top half as he 'materialised'.

[Missinglink]

Thanks Chromedog. That was well delivered. I have some options, which is more than I had a day or so ago.
thanks everyone. Whatever way I go, I'll post the results.

Thanks all

Derek

[Lane]

I'd like a tinted translucent Avatar.

Imagine the Avatar with a red/ orange resin showing thru at the gaps in his armor and internal lighting.
I have the ability to do the casting and know people who could do the painting.
Too bad GW would jump on my A_ _ even if it was for personal use.

[lobster-overlord]

Often thought a clear plastic Terminator would be cool. It could represent it telporting and you could paint the top half as he 'materialised'.

I was going to do this with the Tau Stealth (old style) but I've lost my one of my models... so it's on hold. Necrons would look cool too...

Honestly, it's hard, and it is SOOO worth the time for a great result.

If you can do it without messing up anything on the first try, basic costs will run about $50 to do it.

John M.

[JxKxR]

I'd like a tinted translucent Avatar.

Imagine the Avatar with a red/ orange resin showing thru at the gaps in his armor and internal lighting.
I have the ability to do the casting and know people who could do the painting.
Too bad GW would jump on my A_ _ even if it was for personal use.

Dude, F games workshop. You should do this!

And if you need more reasons then that. As long as you don't try to sell it and don't tell GW your doing it then your in the clear.

[Lane]

Two minor problems with not telling GW:

I play at a GW store.

If I put the work, and money, into making it I would want to show it off.

I would be tempted to buy a Forge World Avatar if they made them in clear resin but honestly I like the metal one better.

[Necron2.0]

A friend recently asked me what I knew of resin casting, for the same reason. I've not done much resin casting, but I told him I knew a company named Alumilite sold products related to it. What follows is part of what I wrote to him:



This is a basic starter kit that include mold making silicone, opaque resin, modeling clay and other generic supplies. It's a pretty good starting point if you just want to test the waters, although it doesn’t include any clear resin:
http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Starter%20Kits&Name=Mini%20Casting%20Kit

If you want to just jump right into it, then here’s probably the specific things you’d need:

Silicone Molding Compound:
http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Silicone%20Rubber&Name=QuickSet

Clear Resin:
http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Casting%20Resins&Name=Alumilite%20Clear

Useful Stuff:
http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Tools&Name=1%20oz.%20Measuring%20Cups
http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Tools&Name=Stir%20Sticks
http://www.allartsupplies.com/item.php?articleId=120


Now, what I personally have the most experience with is casting in metal. I got inspired into it from an article in the May '94 issue of "Fine Scale Modeler." I scanned the article for future reference:
>>Advanced Molding and Casting Techniques<< (http://members.cox.net/necron2.0/img/scratch.pdf)

[archimbald]

hehe would love a clear vindicator, or striking scorpions, just cos, or a landraider, to annoy the fluff nerds lol